The All Purpose Advice Thread

Discussion in 'Advice Threads' started by purr1n, Sep 26, 2015.

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  1. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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    I have a thin-face head, and HD6xx clamping is absolutely not a problem to me. I just need to get the headband angle right for overall comfort (and in my experience better sound) and I can forget I'm wearing them until my ears start warming up. But...

    Crazy idea... Has anybody ever attempted to remove those metal (I'm assuming steel) bands, anneal them, and retemper or change the shape/temper? At a casual look, I can't see if that is possible, but I know that many members know these 'phones literally inside out.
     
  2. Biodegraded

    Biodegraded Friend

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    There's an answer here:

    https://www.head-fi.org/threads/help-sony-zx2-trrs-cable-trs-balanced-source-adapters.787751/

    Seems to make sense. Consider the source though ;)
     
  3. Dino

    Dino Friend

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    I have, in order to replace headband padding. The clamp is fine on me. (Sounds like we have similar heads, Thad. :) )

    There are videos here: http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/sennheiser-hd650.43/page-19#post-95448

    Edit: Nothing about tempering. I think just bending would make that unnecessary.
     
  4. Grahad2

    Grahad2 Red eyes from too much anime

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    Will be socket dependent, best is to just have an adapter.
     
  5. TurbinoZ100000

    TurbinoZ100000 Acquaintance

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    I have an issue with my Schiit Lyr 2. The sound will sometimes turn mono. It might be mono when the amp is turned on, go mono all by itself at random intervals or when I turn the volume knob. I can fix it semi-permanently by doing the slightest adjustments the front tube, but turning the volume knob or slightly jiggling the headphone plug in the jack might temporarily fix it as well. Issue started all of a sudden, wasn't doing any tube rolling for days previously.

    Have tested with three different pairs of tubes in different sockets, so not related to any single tube. Everything points to something being wrong with the front socket, and I probably will be sending the unit in for warranty repair, but I'm confused what the exact issue is here. Why is the sound going mono and how is it related to the socket, knob and jack?
     
  6. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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    @Dino, yes, I think we have similar heads. Mine might be even thinner than yours.

    Thanks for the informative videos. Now I look again, I can see that the made-in-Ireland tab is a separate part. Somehow, I'm always interested in how things come apart, even when I have no need or intention of taking them apart. If I did need to bend that strip, I'd be a lot more comfortable doing it away from the plastic.

    Can the steel strip be removed from the earcup end too? Checked a couple of videos and it is left attached to the top half of the "gimbal"
     
  7. Dino

    Dino Friend

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    I don't believe so.
     
  8. a44100Hz

    a44100Hz Friend

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    Have you tried another headphone cable? To me it sounds like an issue with the TRS connection of the 1/4" jack but I'm not an electrician. Contact Schiit support and pick their brains.
     
  9. TurbinoZ100000

    TurbinoZ100000 Acquaintance

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    I have, same issue. Strangely enough, I've now been mostly able to do the semi-permanent fix by adjusting the pot. Dunno, some loose connection somewhere?

    Already contacted Schiit UK, they're on vacation. Just interested what the possible issue might be. I'm not electronically inclined either.
     
  10. zerodeefex

    zerodeefex SBAF's Imelda Marcos

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    Especially since many devices (including smartphones) have TRRS jacks that are used for devices (headsets) that support both input (mic) and output, you should probably just get an adapter.
     
  11. Ubik

    Ubik New

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    Dears, just introduced myself in the specific page for newcomers. I introduced there how I appreciated the gem of amp i bought from the vintage market (an unsuspected well sounding Pioneer M-22)

    I have recently introduced in my system a autoformer preamplifier feeded by my Metrum Musette. I planned to upgrade the Musette to their new alchemist but still unsure when it is a udible improvement versus the musette.
    While I was reflecting over this topic I also realized that a passive autoformer pre likes the lowest Impedance possible from the DAC to enable it to drive the passive with some authority. Same time a autoformer based passive trade voltage for current...in other words the highest the input voltage from DAC (higher than 2V) gives quite better sound with more current at lowest volume position. To cut a long story short I think new dacs have a slim analog stage and possibly old dac's are beefier in driving a passive pre... To conclude, ....Is Schiit Gungnir or Metrum ametyst my best bet? Or wouldnt be better to look for a used vintage Theta or Parasound or Wadia? If in this process I can stay in the 800-1000 euro budget I would love...

    My reference sound should be perfect tone and nice female vocals with NO spitting sibilance, which I achieved at this stage with the Musette, but just want more of this. Thanxs in case you would draft your best bet.. Cheers
     
  12. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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  13. Ubik

    Ubik New

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    Ok thanxs. Could you pls cancel my question and topic? Don't feel welcomed here. All the best
     
  14. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    that's not what i intended. You are very welcome here. It just makes everybodys lives easier when the proper procedures are followed.
     
  15. Galm

    Galm Still looking for Little Red Riding Hood

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    Question about Tidal vs Roon.

    It seems the only actual difference is that Roon is correctly outputting the right bit rate to my dac (it doesn't change from 192Khz on the Tidal app).

    In Roon it switches from 44.1KHz to 48KHz etc... Depending on the track.

    My initial non blind testing (I'll do blind later this week) seems to sound better on Roon. My question is, is this because of Roon itself, or should my settings for the Tidal app on Windows not be 192KHz? I have a Cayin iDac-6 but I'll have a Yggdrasil shortly, so if it matters treat the advice like it's for a Yggdrasil.

    Thanks!

    Basically I think Roon sounds better but I kind of hate it otherwise, so I'd rather get Tidal to work lol. Roon's search results are like reddit search... aka borderline unrelated to what I searched.

    I'm assuming the answer will have to do something with oversampling/upsampling.

    Edit: Oh and if it is the bit perfect thing, is there an alternative to Roon that's free or something? I don't need all the other features that are cool but not needed for me.

    http://imgur.com/a/jL4d4

    How is that acceptable searching for example...
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2017
  16. Renekton

    Renekton Acquaintance

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    Sure, man, try setting windows to 44.1 and try the sound, I bet there will be no (real) difference between the two players then. The thing is tracks recorded in 44.1 benefit from the special burrito filter, which upsamples using schiits "closed form digital filter", while if windows does the upsampling it uses a way simpler algorithm and I remember reading here that that f*cks the soundstage and stuff.

    Can't help u with the other questions.
     
  17. Hifi-Freak

    Hifi-Freak New

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    So I have after a long research narrowed my amp picks down to either a Meier Audio Corda Classic for 600€ or the Audio G/D NFB 1AMP, which also cost 600€.
    Just not sure which one to pick.
    As always my gear is HD 800, srh 1540 and HE 500. Though the 1540's are soon sold and gone forever and there might soon be a pair of HE 6s in my possession, but I will use a speaker amp for those.
     
  18. Luge

    Luge Acquaintance

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    Hi, I am looking for my first tabletop dac & amp. Hopefully you can help me here:

    My preferences:
    1. I want separate DAC and AMP units so any upgrades are easier (however if there will be a killer dac/amp combo more suitable for me than anything else I can live with it).
    2. On the other hand, in the future I would rather invest into HP than the rig. So I prefer something universal and reasonably future-proof (also see point 3 below).
    3. It is my very first tabletop DAC and AMP. It may be better to start low(er) and go for Modi Multibit+vali 2 but I am quite certain I will like to move up in the chain and I am reluctant to buy things I know I will sell shortly after. Therefore I want to start in the mid-fi region (see "My budget") where I expect the rig to last me for at least couple years.
    4. I want a R2R / multibit DAC.
    5. I want a tube AMP (at least a tube hybrid).
    6. I prefer to have balanced rig but it is not a necessity.
    7. I prefer to have preamp outs from the amp for powered speakers but it is not a necessity.
    8. I slightly prefer to be able to drive IEMs but it is not a big deal.
    9. I highly value manufacturer's guarantee so I prefer not to buy used gear.
    10. (these preferences relate to each other like this: R2R / multibit DAC = tube AMP > separate DAC and AMP >= preouts > balanced > IEMs).
    My budget:
    1. I need both items to fit into USD 1300 / EUR 1300 together. As I am located in EU the difference in the USD/EUR exchange rate is going to negate import duties and fees.
    2. Based on the above please keep in mind that Schiit products are much more expensive in the EU than in the US (Bifrost Multibit costs EUR 680 here and Gungnir Multibit EUR 1300).
    My gear:
    1. Massdrop HD6XX. Not yet in my hands. I am open to mod it later.
    2. For the future I plan to acquire more headphones, preferably across technologies (i.e. some nice mid-fi planar headphones). Also, after some more research I may add some higher-end HP (HD800S, something from Hifiman or other (will see where this hobby takes me)) and/or something closed.
    3. Transport: Win 10 PC and some DAPs / cell phone (digital out). Hi-res FLAC, redbook FLAC, Hi-Fi Tidal.
    My expectations:
    1. I prefer more detailed sound but still enjoyable (musical) and immersing. Until now (with IEMs) I was more satisfied with ESS products than AK. I believe that some rather analytical DAC (Soekris) with tube amp on it may be just what I am looking for. But thats just an ungrounded feeling.
    2. Based on Torq's reviews I believe I prefer something between Soekris dac1541 (very analytical yet not clinical) and Gungnir Multibit (warmer / more musical than Yggdrasil) - maybe like 70% of dac1541 and 30% of Gungnir Multibit.
    3. I want something that will show the capability of HD650.
    4. Also, in the future I would rather choose HP based on my rig, not the other way around.
    5. The sad thing here is that I am not able to audition any of the gear by myself in my country (or at least I am not aware of such possibility). That is why there are so many "I think" and "I believe" in this post.
    My candidates:
    1. Combo units (not a preferable option): Soekris dac1541 / Metrum Ametyst. These units max out my budget on their own. Although their DAC part should be very good (according to Torq / Hands), they do not meet my preference for tube amplification. With Ametyst I am also not sure about the NOS sound (never experienced it and dont have a chance to). If I were looking just for a DAC for this price, these (together with Gungnir Multibit) would be my top picks. However, I am not.
    2. DACs: Bifrost Multibit / Soekris dac1421 / Soekris dac1321. The Bifrost Multibit may be a safe choice but I dont like the fact I am paying USD 200 extra just for being in the EU (i.e. I would like to spend the extra to get better gear, not to pay import duties). Between Soekris dac1421 and dac1321 I would rather go for the 1421 for its better functionality (preouts and SS amp so I can switch between tube and SS). With dac1421 I still have around EUR 500 for an tube amp. However, the downside is that nobody has evaluated the Soerkis dacs yet (apart from dac1541).
    3. AMPs: Massdrop x Alex Cavalli Tube hybrid amp (CTH) / Feliks Espressivo / ECS Torpedo 3 or 4 / something else. Here I am quite lost. It would be nice to save some money and go for the CTH but I dont want so establish a weak link in my rig by that. I found quite positive reviews about Feliks Elise here but nothing about Espressivo. The Torpedo (probably in version 4 which should be available in the autumn) may be also a very good choice - but it is not out yet.
    So, may I ask you for your input and recommendations on which DAC and AMP would be best for me? Please do not feel restricted by my "candidates" - I am open for recommendations on any gear.

    Thank you.
     
  19. Torq

    Torq MOT: Headphone.com

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    First question ... are you willing to consider used gear? That potentially changes the equation enormously.
     
  20. bengo

    bengo Friend

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    @baldr hinted at a new, much improved Bifrost at some point. Given your budget, I would maybe go for the cheaper version with AKM chip for now and upgrade whenever the new Multibit 2.0 appears, I guess probably not for a year or so.

    If you plan to use USB input a lot, it's also worth considering a new Bifrost over used Bifrost or any Modi Multibit, since it should come with Gen 5. Having said that, I have a used Modi Multibit for sale right now, if it helps.

    The Modi Multibit is great value if a bit warm overall, in fact for a super budget system, a Modi Multibit and good solid-state / slightly-bright-to-neutral amp should be a pretty fantastic combo. Synergy is important. Likewise a Gungnir Multibit and cheap amp which you will replace later could be another way to go. @Kattefjaes will tell you that Gungnir Multibit can be all the DAC you will ever need.

    What would I do in your position? Ah, I would probably save up a bit more and get a Gungnir Multibit (new with GEN 5 if you need USB, otherwise used) and a really good used tube amp.

    I would not worry about balanced vs SE. Marv's advice is spot on as usual.
     
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