Cleaning Vinyl

Discussion in 'Music and Recordings (vinyl , 8-track, etc.)' started by JK47, Sep 29, 2015.

  1. Merrick

    Merrick A lidless ear

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    For maximum coverage you should use both. I have brushes too, I just prefer the in the groove cleaner.
     
  2. Divad al-Rahsir

    Divad al-Rahsir Facebook Friend

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    1 part 91% isopropyl alcohol, 4 parts distilled water, and one small part (a few drops per spray bottle) of liquid dish soap as a surfactant. The surfactant may not be important, but we use the very same thing at work to wet down asbestos due to its ability to get into microscopic crevices, so I suppose that it won't hurt here. I wipe the mess up with microfiber towels.

    I'm new at this, and I'm listening via a low end Technics and Mani, through homebuilt speakers. If this is wrong, I don't want to be right. The folks with more expensive stuff may be on another level of nirvana, and if so, I will achieve that enlightenment eventually. One thing at a time, right? I'm just enjoying the hell out of this ride right now.

    I realized a few days ago that I'm probably going to have to sell my Gungnir Multibit, and probably most of my headphones as well. f'ing vinyl and f'ing speakers. I hate you f'ing guys, but I mean this in the nicest way possible. My lasting regret is starting with digital, but that's what I had when I started, so...
     
  3. Wfojas

    Wfojas Friend

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    You might want to cut back on the alcohol in the mix. Alcohol does leach out plasticizers, but it may take a few years to manifest, so ymmv.
     
  4. Divad al-Rahsir

    Divad al-Rahsir Facebook Friend

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    I'm not convinced that this is a problem, at least in a chemical sense. The science folks say that PVC can play happily with isopropanol, at least for up to 48 hours and at room temperature. I haven't been able to track down a significant number of first hand experiences with alcohol harming records, and I suspect that those were due to something else and were mistakenly attributed to alcohol.

    That having been said, I should note that I don't do this freqently. This is only for jobs that a brush can't handle.
     
  5. neogeosnk

    neogeosnk Friend

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    Anyone use Spin-Clean? Looks like a basic cleaner maybe a stop gap before going all in on a system?
     
  6. Merrick

    Merrick A lidless ear

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    Don't use a Spin Clean. You're better off hand washing your records. The dirt collects in the basin and begins applying itself to records after you've done a few. If you want a stop gap solution, get the 3D printed system I've linked to here and a $20 shop vac to go with it.
     
  7. JK47

    JK47 Guest

    I use a Spin Clean after my ultrasonic cleaner with no ill effects. Even some times use the Spin Clean by itself and no problem with dirt getting back on the record
     
  8. Wfojas

    Wfojas Friend

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    The decline is over the years, you really shouldn't experience anything asap.
    Vinyl should last 80 years or so, so not sure if it will half life or worst. I have the research somewhere, but hey, it's your records. Wash away!
     
  9. Wfojas

    Wfojas Friend

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    I'm currently in a deep dive on record cleaning and various aspects of it, and read this in the last week.

    http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....a-purely-scientific-view.702266/#post-9415872



    Yes, IPA is a solvent (so is water). It is effective on certain oils as it has a non-polar region (carbon chain) and a polar end (-OH group). Oils are comprised of molecules with long carbon chains and "like dissolves like", so the non-polar groups prefer to be with other non-polar groups in an aqueous solution. On the other hand, the polar alcohol group of IPA likes to be in water, so you have a compound that bridges the non-polar and polar, hence solubilization of the oil. The saturated carbon chain of IPA is short and branched. Similar compounds with longer non-polar chains (higher alcohols) are even more effective at solubilizing oils. Change the polar alcohol group in these long chains to a carboxylate, sulfate, ester, or other group and you get soaps or detergents that are much more effective at solubilizing oils. The plasticizers in PVC that give the plastic its properties are soluble in lower alcohols like IPA so they are not recommended (Scientific studies from preservationists have demonstrated plasticizer removal falls as you get below 50% IPA , but it is assumed some may get some extraction at all concentrations). The longer chain detergents do not extract plasticizers. Considering this, and their higher effectiveness at solubilizing oils, detergents are the preferred choice for cleaning records.
    There's more to this in terms of changing the surface tension of water, thermodynamics,micelle formation, solubilization of non-oily contaminants, etc., but this is a simple explanation of what I think you were asking.

    A later posting states acceptability at below 15% with a surfactant and quats. It's a looooong thread, but again, nothing wrong with you doing it, at all.
     
  10. Chris F

    Chris F Boyz 4 Now Fanatic - Friend

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    This looks like a good quick way to pre-clean before a trip to the ultrasonic tank:


    Supposed to be shipping (again) in Q2 2017.
     
  11. Wfojas

    Wfojas Friend

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    Oh, funny you just posted those I was just looking at mine yesterday. I have my originals from before the dark ages.

    There are also these for those that can't wait till then, but I dont know how well they work.

    http://www.analogplanet.com/content/orbitracâ„¢-replacement

    I also tried cutting pads from Home depot, but those bristles are kind of stiff for my comfort (again, YMMV), and they are pretty wide. They are really cheap though, and I've read a few people use them.

    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Shur-Line-Paint-Edger-00100c/100070177

    I was planning to use them with an enzymatic cleaner for my moldier platters (I used to live in damp, humid weather), but will probably just use Last Brushes to spread the fluid. I should inventory all the doodads I have for cleaning vinyl and styli, that should be an interesting list.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2016
  12. pedalhead

    pedalhead Friend

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    This Heath Robinson looking device gets good press in some corners of geekdom. The video will make you think someone slipped LSD in your coffee though...

     
  13. JayC

    JayC Resident Crash Test Dummy

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    I just got my own turntable and the biggest issue i have is that the lid attracts a ton a of dust because has some static on it. Not really sure how to fix that. I'd rather not use an antistatic carbon brush on the lid and then on my records. I know this isnt exactly a "cleaning vinyl" question, but I didnt know where else to ask..

    I've seen people suggest a 50/50 solution of dish soap and water, or cleaning with dryer sheets or getting a humidifier but I'm curious if someone here has had the same problem and found a good way to solve it?
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2017
  14. Vansen

    Vansen Gear Master (retiring)

    Staff Member Pyrate
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    @jayeshrc I had this issue with my Orbit when I first got it. The static from the lid was actually affecting playback. The static dissipated after about a week and now my lid is fine.
     
  15. Wfojas

    Wfojas Friend

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    I zap it with a Zerostat gun. That helps.
     
  16. JayC

    JayC Resident Crash Test Dummy

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    @Vansen - Good to know that it goes away. I'll probably try using a drop of soap in water and clean it (and the rest of my room - I never realized just how much dust I have in my room until I got my turntable!)

    @Wfojas, I wish I could spend another 70 bucks on a Zerostat. Maybe in a while, right now I'm pretty much pulling air out of my pockets
     
  17. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    I'm thinking about doing a diy ultrasonic thing. Seems pretty good for $130.
    I might try and rig up the rotations to a clock, if the clock motor is powerful enough. Plus, built in alarm to tell me when its done.
     
  18. Daveheart

    Daveheart Friend

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    If you can't afford one now, definitely set up an eBay alert for a Zerostat. Static isn't a one time occurrence. It's often far worse at the beginning from the unpacking and whatnot, but it'll creep up from time to time. I think I picked up a spare for under $30 a few years ago. I assume that it's possible to wear a zerostat out, but I've still got one that's about as old as I am. One zerostat should last your through any turntable upgrade you ever make.
     
  19. Chris F

    Chris F Boyz 4 Now Fanatic - Friend

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    Picked up a 1/2 pint of Triton X-100 from Talas. I think it's an improvement over using Photo Flo. Need to do more batches of records but initial impression is that the Triton seems to really help the ultrasonic cavitation process do it's best work.

    Check the top end freq response (same song) before/after.....
    Before.png After.png

    Only downside with Triton that you need to premix it (it has the consistency of goo) and rinse (VPI etc..) after. For the premix I just fill the tank up swish it around a little, run a degas and let it sit overnight. Rinse I was already doing so no biggie there...
     
  20. Wfojas

    Wfojas Friend

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    Triton-X100 also needs to be refridgerated. I cut a mix of 2 parts Isoprophyl and 1 part Triton-X100 and store that. That makes it viscous and ensures that you can keep it a room temp without it growing mold. Then I just mix 1.09 tablespoon of it to 5 liters of water. I had a harder time with behendromine when i couldnt initially source Hepastat 256, but that's since worked out. I ended up with 16.25 ml of triton X, 5 ml of Hepastat, 240.05 ml of Isoprophyl Alcohol and distilled water for a 5 liter Ultrasonic lean bath. Then I just double rinse and dry with a rinse mix. I am still shy about adding alcohol in the end, so I chicken out at 3% for the rinse.
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018

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