Mutec USB Interfaces: MC-1.2 & MC-3+ Smart Clock USB

Discussion in 'Digital: DACs, USB converters, decrapifiers' started by Luckbad, Apr 1, 2016.

  1. Artasia

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  2. Wfojas

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  3. Madaboutaudio

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    I have experimented with various connections(BNC/COAX/AES/OPTICAL) between the Mutec MC3+USB and the Yggdrasil. The best result I gotten is from a Lifatec 20inch glass toslink cable. It has the most life-like, silky & transparent sound, a major improvement from any other connection type. Highly recommended connection for any mutec+Yggdrasil user.
     
  4. cskippy

    cskippy Creamy warmpoo

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    That's interesting as MIke mentions that AES is the prefered input for Yggdrasil. I guess cable quality is also a factor in overall sound quality.
     
  5. bazelio

    bazelio Friend

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    Could you link to that post because I was reading through the HF Yggdrasil thread last night, and he talks about USB, AES, BNC, etc in one particular post. But I definitely do not interpret his remarks as "AES is the preferred input".
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2016
  6. cskippy

    cskippy Creamy warmpoo

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    I don't remember a specific post but remember reading it more than once. I'll look around to see if I can find anything.
     
  7. bazelio

    bazelio Friend

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    Do you happen to know of a valid reason to spend $70 bucks on a Lifatec Toslink cable instead of $4 on a this Monoprice Toslink cable?
     
  8. cskippy

    cskippy Creamy warmpoo

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  9. bazelio

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  10. Madaboutaudio

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    I already have a $4 toslink(as well as oems ones that came with my sony tv) before I saw this post by Mike Moffat where he recommended Glass based Toslink over Plastic ones. That was the reason why I took the $70 plunge:

    http://www.head-fi.org/t/784471/what-a-long-strange-trip-its-been-robert-hunter/375#post_12326890

    Also I had tried 110ohm AES cables of different brands and price range(from cheap to expensive).In the end, the Lifatec glass toslink sounds the best to my ears out of all the cables I tried(with respect to mike moffat's first choice of AES for yggdrasil), and I am recommending them based on my own experience as a customer as well as trying to be a helpful SBAF.

    Here's my rundown:
    AES 110ohm: warmish sound, with slightly less airy treble, more bass slam
    75ohm Coax: transparent sound but least dynamic of the bunch
    BNC: Same as coax, slightly better depth.
    Plastic toslink: treble seems to be sharper, but some kind of veil/lack of transparency/blurriness
    Glass toslink: fast: revealing plankton details, more life-like vocals and holographic
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2016
  11. Luckbad

    Luckbad Traded in a unicorn for a Corolla

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    Blergh. I don't think I'm going to get to hear the Mutec with new firmware. A bunch of computer trouble has lead me to the need to sell the Mutec MC-3+USB. Listing it shortly.
     
  12. Madaboutaudio

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    Here's a interesting experiment(not scientific nor abx-able, YMMV), though you need all of the below equipment to try out:

    Requirements:
    Mutec connected to Yggdrasil via all the various digital inputs (coax,bnc,optical,aes)
    Near-field speakers position at stereo sweet spot(not sure if horn speakers like JBL30x will work)
    Swivel chair height adjusted to the same height as the speakers

    Play some live recorded(vocal preferred) or instrument music(not electronic). Not all types music will work.
    Sit on your swivel chair(close your eyes for better effect), slowly rotate your swivel chair clockwise and anticlockwise(+35 degree to -35 degree angle) as the music is playing.
    Notice the stereo image shifting as you slowly(+1 deg per sec) swivel your chair left to right then right to left(repeat).
    Cycle between the various inputs on the Yggdrasil dac(big round button).
    Compare the various inputs/cables, which input has the most coherent/stable stereo imaging as you rotate your chair about.
    Good input should feel as if there are distinct sound objects floating in space that are easily tracked by your ears(no blurry voice/weird phase shifts) as you rotate about.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2016
  13. IceUul

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    I need USB -> SPDIF converter for some older DAC's that does not have usb input. At the moment i am using computer high quality sound card which is not good enough. I am wondering any of them (MC-1.2 or MC-3+) would help me to connect computer to old dac. Do any of them do high quality conversion? I need to convert 24bit files to 16bit and 96khz to 44.1.
     
  14. Luckbad

    Luckbad Traded in a unicorn for a Corolla

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    Almost anything is going to be better than USB input on a DAC. The best cost/performance converter is probably the Singxer F-1, but I'd recommend the Singxer SU-1 as a big step up.

    The Mutec MC-3+USB is better, but is more than twice the price.
     
  15. Wfojas

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    Just curious, do you know anyone who's had the SIngxer F-1 in their setup?
     
  16. Luckbad

    Luckbad Traded in a unicorn for a Corolla

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    I've used the F-1, SU-1, MC-1.2, and MC-3+USB all in the same setup (and Lynx E22 and Rednet 3 and others).

    Ranking would be something like this for my main setup:

    Rednet 3
    Mutec MC-3+USB
    Lynx E22
    Singxer SU-1
    Mutec MC-1.2
    Singxer F-1

    On my work setup, I've never heard Rednet or Lynx, but the Mutec 3 and Singxer SU sound virtually identical there.
     
  17. Wfojas

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    Thanks, @Luckbad . That's good to know. Some quarters have pegged the SU-1 as equal to the BADA USB converter, so your ranking gives me an idea of its quality, and reading between the lines, I see that you need a really resolving setup to make use of it.
     
  18. Luckbad

    Luckbad Traded in a unicorn for a Corolla

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    There is definitely a threshold of resolution before which I can't hear much difference in signal delivery.

    With my current tube complement at home, it drives enough resolution home to hear differences in all of the listed converters.

    Lynx E22 → MHDT Labs Atlantis+ [6н3п-др or 6н26п] → ampsandsound Mogwai [6н9с МЭЛЗ металл.цок., 6п3с-Е]

    Add a GE 5-Star Triple Mica into the Atlantis for added euphony and you have to go up a notch to hear differences. Go with KT88 power tubes for more punch and you have to go a notch up, etc.

    There is a hard line between the F-1/MC-1.2 and the next step up. I can pretty much hear differences in all but particularly unresolving setups between the "cheaper" converters and the higher tier stuff.

    This setup at work is reasonably resolving, but it's more about musicality than resolution:

    MHDT Labs Canary [6н26п] → Garage1217 Project Sunrise III [6н6п]

    The Singer SU-1 and Mutec MC-3+USB sound blind-test identical to me with that setup.
     
  19. Madaboutaudio

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    Last edited: Jul 27, 2016
  20. RKML0007

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    Substantial improvement immediately noticed. Great upgrade all around!
     

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