Neurochrome HP-1

Discussion in 'Headphone Amplifiers and Combo (DAC/Amp) Units' started by Cspirou, Oct 26, 2016.

  1. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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  2. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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    White chassis with red ends, for Canadian reasons... :p
     
  3. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    The Pico amps aren't exactly inexpensive. They do look very nice, though. I appreciate the data point. I'd be fine selling a bunch at that price, assuming I can make them for below that price.

    There's definitely an economy of scale here. One can get 1000 enclosures made and get the cost down. But even if they're $10-20/each (I'm sure the ones used on the Pico are more) that's still a $10-20k outlay. Just something to think about.

    It's interesting to have these discussions, though. That's a fun place to be with a hobby-turned-business.

    Tom

    PS: No. I'm not planning a battery powered amp. Just saying...
     
  4. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

    Pyrate BWC
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    And then at 10-20k you start thinking to yourself... hey, I can convert part of the garage into a machine shop... let's just ignore the fact that I still need to buy raw materials and spend a ton of hours to actually make these things for the small (if even) savings it would offer...
     
  5. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    ....and the fact that I'm currently renting. :)
     
  6. Grahad

    Grahad Friend

    Pyrate
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    Or you can learn from some dude in Germany and sell your amp "vibrationally optimized, as the pcb is flat-press-mounted on a specially treated spruce-board. This construction is time-consuming during manufacture, but improves sound quality, as all components are mechanically coupled to a musical sound board."

    Maybe some Canadian Maple. ;)
     
  7. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    Or design the circuit so it doesn't require any of that audiophool stuff... :)

    Tom
     
  8. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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    Clearly, the best thing here is to simply encase the entire pcb and fill the chassis with thermally conductive epoxy for vibration control and better heat dissipation. Plus that will add weight, and everyone knows that heavier amps are better than light ones.


    edit: although... a transparent encased amp would be kinda cool too (sorta like that guy who made the crystal cmoy)
     
  9. MattRG

    MattRG Facebook Friend

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    Going back towards the beginning of this thread and catching up to the end today has been both entertaining and educational. I don't pretend to understand all of the information that is presented here but I can tell that the HP-1 is a well thought out and remarkably engineered DIY amp. Furthermore it's awesome to see the sharing of information and collaboration with the designer right here in the thread and it has helped a layman like myself understand and appreciate all of the knowledge and wisdom that goes in to making a fantastic SS amp. Very cool!
     
  10. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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  11. Hrodulf

    Hrodulf Prohibited from acting as an MOT until year 2050

    Pyrate
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    Damn, imagine digging through that audio jizz to service the damn thing.

    As for the HP-1 the look is starting to grow on me after I've seen the last pics. The knob NEEDS to be bigger tho.
     
  12. BMF Flyer

    BMF Flyer New

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    I have to agree with fishski. The price of the custom enclosure is well worth the time saved and avoiding the frustration factor associated with installing the amp in a Lansing or Par-Metal generic case that is likely too big. Using a custom case, you know the board will fit without the DIY look of messily cut and drilled holes. For those wanting a little different look, you may be able to use a different volume pot knob and different screws to replace the Phillips head screws. McMaster-Carr carries a wide assortment.

    I'm just finishing up solderdude's Kameleon v2 desktop amp. I have the parts sorted for Neurochrome HP-1 and ready to build once the PCB and enclosure arrive.
     
  13. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    I like the "No User Serviceable Parts Inside" sign on the epoxy encased amp.

    How much bigger would you like it. There's a 3/4" (19 mm) and a 23.5 mm version of that knob as well. I doubt the 23.5 mm will fit. The 19 mm might. Of course I just bought another 10 of the 5/8" (15.88 mm) version that is on the current amp... Received the box from Digikey this morning. :)

    Tom
     
  14. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    Yeah. The front panel screws are self-tapping, so there should be tons of options available. For the holes, in particular the XLR holes tend to be a pain to drill. You can do it with a stepped drill, but most of those don't have a 22 mm step. They come close, but there'll be some slop. The chassis I offer fits really well.

    Tom
     
  15. Riotvan

    Riotvan Snoofer in the Woofer

    Pyrate
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    Maybe some nice wood on the sides akin to ECP audio, @dsavitsk does some beatiful work.
     
  16. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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    A method I used once was to drill out to the nearest size, then carve out the remainder with a dremel. Please note, I did not say this was a good method... there may have been some blood and swearing involved.
     
  17. fishski13

    fishski13 Friend

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    I'm really happy to have the opportunity to listen to the HP-1 again for an extended period of time. After shipping off the loaner amp, I began to have doubts about spending $800 on another amp. I have too many amps already, but the HP-1 is a remarkable amp that I want in my regular rotation. Some people roll HPs, I roll amps. My previous impressions haven't changed.

    I would call the HP-1 a neutral reference by which to gauge other amps, and revealing of upstream changes. The HP-1 is a neutral palette cleanser, while eschewing boring sterility. It's detailed with a pitch black background. Tone is clean, but meaty and satisfying. My mind is constantly being drawn to the musical line, rhythm, and phrasing - music has a pulse, with a more propulsive, dynamic force, and the musicians sound like they're playing in real time with one another. If you prefer a more delicate, laid-back, ethereal/airy, or cavernous/soundstagey presentation, look elsewhere.

    Most of my amps would fall under the 'minimalist' category. I've come to appreciate the added features in the HP-1: selectable 3 gain settings, muting DC offset protection, and selectable balanced/unbalanced input. All of this is done at board level with relays. I wish more designs/manufacturers would offer all these features. There's a lot of music, power, and features in a small package.
     
  18. fishski13

    fishski13 Friend

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    If i need a precision hole with tight tolerances, I draw out in TurboCAD or FPE, with drill-out centers marked with a cross-hair in the program, print it out, tape exactly where I want it, measured with decent metal ruler, use an automatic center punch dead center of the cross hairs, drill through the center punch divet with a 1/16" bit, and follow up with the appropriate sized bit. Clamps and WD40 on flat MDF is best, but the MDF with eat up your bits over time not matter what. Depending on what side I'm drilling through, and especially with larger diameters, I often prefer wood flat bits or hole saw bits (no kidding). XLRs are a pain in the ass. I've also gone with smaller holes and followed up with a deburring tool to enlarge the holes exactly, like whittling wood. I have a decent dremel, but most often prefer the deburring tool. Rear mounting chassis components are the way to go if you're not sending it off for professional CAD milling. I love FPE, and it's reasonable.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2017
  19. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    At some point during that process you start kicking yourself for not just throwing a few bucks in the direction of a machine shop.
     
  20. fishski13

    fishski13 Friend

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    I used to really enjoy DIYing my own chassis. I have a really nice non-ferrous Freud blade for the chop box, cutting wax, a router table for wood, auto body shops for fine grit sandpaper for aluminum, tung-oil, crazy assortment of drill bits, and patience. Never used a drill press though. I once built a guitar amp out of scrap aluminum for a buddy. No G-10 board with punched turrets for me - I wanted to cut my own boards and use terminal strips sourced from my local Axman surplus store. Now i would just pay $50 for a Hammond and some G-10 with turrets. I don't miss the bastard file either. I have 2 children now and life is short.

    https://solderworksaudio.wordpress.com/petes-high-octane-safire/
     

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