Schiit Ragnarok - aka raggy

One way to effectively deal with 'stock' 800's is by using EQ, such as Sonarworks DSP plug-in.
It will make a noticeable difference.

JJ

 

It's actually not a switch, it's an analog pot providing a voltage to be read by the microprocessor, which then drives the relays. That way, it's not one of those endlessly spinning encoder deals--it acts just like a pot, with stops at bottom and top.

And resistors? 5% and 10% are proper to the 1970s. Try 0.5%.

 

EXCELLENT!
I ALWAYS like to get the straight poop from the designer his own bad self…

JJ

 

Gungnir Multibit + Rag + HD800S =

 

Makes total sense. When evaluating equipment, the whole chain must be taken into account.

I have the Beyer T90, probably the most treble happy cans in the Beyer lineup, and that's saying a lot. I found the treble issue was somewhat remedied when I upgraded the power cable on my Bifrost 4490 and virtually elimated when I did away with some stock RCA cables for a set of Morrow Audio MA1's. Don't ask me why but it happened and I now have no problem listening for many hours a day without pain or fatigue.

I was hesitating on the Ragnarok+HD800 because of the divided reviews but now I feel like it'll be okay now that I know what could remedy any treble issues. I really like all the Schiit gear I've had/demoed, so I like to stay "loyal".

 

I purchased sonarworks and was using it with JRiver on my DT880/HD558/HD600. I loved it.

But I switched to Bughead Emperor which can't use DSPs, but the substantial uptick in SQ was worth the tradeoff. When I get the HD800 I may try one of the various mods floating around.

 

Respectfully disagree about no remote, there's a 60/100Watt farfield ;D amp in there, and balanced *long* headphone cables are a great use of that "balanced" signal.

 

Ah, that makes sense what with it being 64 steps (2^6), an 8 bit adc would make conversion easy.

And 0.5% matching is WAY better than any pot…

JJ
ps I was sorely tempted to jump into pun-land but in a miraculous display of self-control I fended off running with the ball any further than a simple poop joke…

 

I turned my Ragnarok back on today after having it off for about two hours, the gain led is continuously flashing and no lights are showing up for the inputs. My issue seems a little different than the fault protection described in the manual. Has anyone ever had an issue like this before?

 

Check your speaker cables if any are connected. I had a loose speaker cable on my receiver recently and it triggered protective shutdown.

 

I turned it off then unplugged everything and turned it back on but still having the exact same issue. Very strange especially since it was working perfectly up to a few hours ago

 

Guys, what is this?

 

Ok, I'll hazard a guess…

It looks like a Rok main board but the layout suggests either an experimental pivot point version or 'other' type of circuit.
The 3 gain predriver board, normally found as a daughter board, is 'missing'.

JJ

 

Damn, I saw that picture many times and always dismissed it as Rag. Looking at it now, that ain't no Rag. Could it be one of the upcoming speaker amps?

 

It has the balanced and unbalamced, output cabling for front panel connections for HP's.
And it looks like the 'normal' compliment of I/O connectors on the back, along with normal power and speaker output wiring out the back as well.

JJ

 

Interesting thoughts...

From Marv's impressions, the Jotunheim's new pivot topology may surpass the cyclotron in sound clarity and speed.

I wonder whether the Ragnarok could be upgraded to the pivot system in similar fashion to Schiit's higher end DACs.

 

A pivot point Rag with remote control would be an awesome product. Just saying.

 

Looks like a Yihua 898D hot air/soldering station:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/YIHU...-Digital-Soldering-Iron-2-in/32256600649.html

 

Early Rag 2 prototype? Look at the volume relays, smaller quieter probably and separated left/right.

 

Where was this picture originally posted?