Schiit Valhalla 2

I have a Beyer T90, probably the most treble happy cans in existence. But if you have high quality gear, they are usually not a problem. 95% of the time they are fine with my solid state integrated amp. I've read a few raves about pairing them with Valhalla 2, so I don't forsee a problem .

I was just looking for tubes that don't exaggerate the treble. But are also upgrades from the stock tubes and not too expensive.

 

Most Holland-made Amperex tubes tend to be a little warmer and smoother in the treble. Some NOS JAN Phillips are also budget tubes that are nicely balanced.

 

I agree, Phillips/Valvo Herleen tubes would be the best bet. Check Upscale Audio for PCC88 tubes to save money.

 

I'm not sure if we're allowed to post outside links so apologies in advance, but I wanna be sure I'm getting the right tubes as far as compatibility...

http://www.upscaleaudio.com/6922-6dj8-7308-pcc88/philips-pcc88-7dj8/

Would these work with Valhalla 2? And are they same Phillips mentioned above? Thanks.

 

Yes, those are the right ones. Get two and skip the cryogenic treatment. You might also want to grab a pair of socket savers, otherwise the tubes will be difficult to remove.

 

Been running the Val2 since yesterday and am knocked out by the sound. Liquid smooth, very resolving and musical. Super happy with my decision.

How long do the tubes last?

 

Standard tubes normally last between 5,000 and 10,000 hours.

 

Does that include the power tubes in the back? And do those affect the SQ?

 

Dude you really just need to read the manufacturer's FAQ about your amp and the rest of this thread, where all of your recent questions have been addressed.

All of them. Promise.

 

Yes, of course. Bad habit on my part.

 

Hi, I don't know this thread is the appropriate place to post my question, but it's about valhalla 2, so...

I'm looking for a pair of NOS Amperex tubes right now, and found an eBay seller (mercedesman6572; I think one member had experience with this seller) who's selling a pair of Bugle Boy tubes. Link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/222224592074?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I noticed that the "Made in Holland" mark isn't placed right below "6DJ8/ECC88" mark like other Bugle Boy I've known. Example (twice the price of mercedes'): http://www.ebay.com/itm/131907650808?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Are the first pair of Bugle Boy authentic? I need help from more experienced people, as I'm just starting on tube rolling.

 

I've bought from him a couple of times before, liked the tubes, liked the seller. But I have no in depth tube knowledge, or know what years where silk screening was applied. I do know there are tons of variations out there that are legit. IIRC there were several holland manufacturing houses, maybe they didn't mark all of them the same?

 

Edited.

 

Edit of Merrick's post from the Jotunheim thread. I think it's a beautiful description.

 

EDIT HISTORY:
- The first 2 hour of BB was absolutely unacceptable. Then I listened again after 10-hour mark. Holy schmoly, insanely good! Ratings are adjusted.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Got myself a pair of Amperex Bugle Boy & Orange Globe. Then comparison between 3 tubes (them plus stock) on Valhalla 2 sounds logical. Below are based on quick notes during listening time.

HD800 SDR without SBAF mod otherwise noted
Schiit ModiMB > Valhalla 2
Tubes:
Stock Valhalla 2 (unknown usage time, no microphonic)
Amperex Orange Globe 1969 Holland (tested NOS, 1 microphonic)
Amperex Bugle Boy 1960 Holland (tested NOS, 1 microphonic)

Best >>> Worst (not Most >>> Least)
Treble
Sibilance OG > BB >> S
Sparkle S >> BB > OG
Flatness(compared to mid) BB > S > OG...OG is rolled off, S is elevated
Detail S >= BB >> OG...OG is reduced by roll off

Mid
Smoothness OG >> BB >= S
Syrupy OG = BB >> S...think OG as solid-state smooth (Shure IEMs), BB isn't as flowing but the wetness helps a lot
Detail BB > OG >= S...despite being wet, the detail & decay of BB is just mesmerising

Bass
Impact S > BB > OG...S & BB 'thump, thump, thump', OG 'boom, boom, boom'
Quantity S > BB > OG
Detail S >= BB > OG...OG bass is quite one dimensional
Flatness(compared to mid) S >= BB > OG...OG is rolled off

General
Soundstage BB >= S > OG
Holographic S >= BB > OG...Stock have planktons between head & the furthest sound
Air BB > S >> OG
PRaT BB = S >> OG
Neutral BB > S >= OG...None is perfectly neutral
Tube wetness BB >> OG > S
Fun BB > OG > S

Conclusion, listening to well mastered music
OG: warmish, little bit n-shaped, magical mid, perfect pairing with HD800 SDR w/o SBAF
BB:
S: quite bright, solid state sound, grainy/brittle mid, SBAF isn't a must for treble heads

HD800 SDR OG/BB vs. HD800 SDR SBAF Stock: I'd choose OG/BB as SBAF mod shrinks soundstage more than OG/BB.

Verdict
waiting for longer burn in period

Notes:
Might be revised because of burning in period & additional metrics.

 

Yes, enjoying the music from now on. And next year, Valhalla 3/Mojojo 2 or Gungnir Multibit.

 

I'm one of those completely uninterested in tube rolling, which kept me away from tube amps forever. A rabbit hole I don't wanna fall into.

The Matsushita 7DJ8/PCC88s I bought for $60 total were a noticeable upgrade from the stock tubes, and besides some Amperex I'm curious about (hearing from @Marvey), I'm done. I just want to turn on the amp and listen, not dream about different tonalities.

@Marvey, those Amaperex you have for Val2, were they worth the money? Noticeable upgrade from lower tier tubes like the ones I bought?

 

I have a really stupid question, everyone. If the point is to NOT get a "tubey" sound, then why use tubes in the first place? Why not just use solid state to get a solid state sound?

 

Valhalla 2 still sounds tubey to me, just less so, it does not sound solid state from what I've heard of SS amps.