Solder and Soldering Irons

Discussion in 'DIY' started by JK47, Nov 28, 2015.

  1. JK47

    JK47 Guest

    What are people out there using?

    I upgraded my 7 year old budget Velleman soldering station with a Hakko FX-888D (waiting on delivery).

    I'm almost finished the spool of silver solder I was talked into buying when I purchased my first DIY amp kit. So I ordered a 1lb spool of Kester 63/37 with the Hakko station.
     
  2. fierce_freak

    fierce_freak Friend

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    Both sound like solid moves. I'm using the hakko and kester 63/37, no complaints.
     
  3. Luckbad

    Luckbad Traded in a unicorn for a Corolla

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    Trying to decide between Hakko and a generic Circuit Specialists one recommended by Jeremy at Garage1217.
     
  4. Xen

    Xen Friend

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    Using Aoyue 469 soldering station, which was $29.99 from Amazon. It does not have built in thermometer, so I substituted a laser/IR reader. Its good enough for wire work and through-hole stuff. Not sure about surface-mount stuff though. I should have picked up the Hakko FX888D at under $100. From reviews and tutorials, I think the Hakko has superior heat reservoirs, maintains temperature better, and supplies heat more evenly. My 469 is constantly reheating the tip, every 2 seconds or so. If you watch a video of the FX888D, it doesn't reheat for at least 10 seconds on standby. The FX888D also has a digital thermometer and comes with a brass tip cleaner. Brass tip cleaner actually works compared to a wet sponge which is standard for "cheap" stations. Bought a standalone brass cleaner for $8, which means my $29.99 station is now close to $50. Another $50 would have gotten me the Hakko, or I got almost a Hakko for $50 depending on your POV.

    Also I suggest getting a Hakko 1.6mm flat solder tip as it delivers more heat, quicker than the conical tip supplied as default for both 469 and the FX888D. Plus, it is easier to get the tip onto the place you want to solder.

    I use the same solder, Kester 44, 67/33, 0.020" diameter, 1 lb spool.
     
  5. uncola

    uncola Friend

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    Luckbad which iron does Jeremy recommend? I'm very cheap so I've been muddling along with a 5 dollar Hong Kong special with conical tip. Good enough for audio cable connectors but I should get a temperature controlled one before I build my first non cable project
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2015
  6. Jeb

    Jeb Friend

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    Based on a lot of the recommendations on the Bottlehead forum to get a good temp-controlled station I jumped straight in at the Hakko FX888 when I built my first kit earlier this year. I also used a 1.6mm chisel tip ( As mentioned by @Xen ). Cardas Quad for the solder.

    Of course I have nothing else to compare it to but found the whole set-up very easy to use and keep clean for a beginner. Being a total newb I wanted to try and eliminate the hardware as a source of possible problems. Also noticed that the Hakko has good re-sale value in case the whole DIY thing didn't work out.

    Initially I was quite nervous & sucked at it pretty bad, but got better after practice. I'm sure this is a well known technique but the best advice I was given was to dab a bit of solder on the end of the tip before touching to the joint - it made all the difference in heating thoroughly & getting in and out quickly with a nice shiny finish.
     
  7. feilb

    feilb Coco the monkey - Friend

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    I like my solder with lead, the way God intended. I do a good amount of surface mount work and it flows much better than the RoHS compliant junk. Usually I stock 2 sizes: 1 super thin, one fairly thick. For surface mount, the thinner, the better. For cables and stuff, the thicker solder helps you not feed 5 linear feet into a simple splice.

    I don't have enough money for the fancy silver solder, nor enough faith that it does anything better than the good old stuff.
     
  8. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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    I used to use one of these...

    [​IMG]


    And, at a hobby level, I was quite happy with silver or gold at red heat. With a different head, I also used it to light open-grate coal fires in the house. Very quick!

    Somehow, electrical soldering, though, always evaded me.

    I had a cheap 60W iron. Last time I tried to make one working mouse from several dead ones I destroyed a couple of circuit boards in the process. Recently, I bought an 18W Antec, in the hope that I will find it less fierce and more controllable. It is yet to be tried out.

    But I miss my Sievert torch. It is decades since I tried to make any jewellery, but it is always nice to have something handy that will do the job when one wants a chunk of metal red hot, or to free up some-seized parts.

    By the way, I was browsing soldering equipment a few days ago, and came across the new-to-me concept of hot-air soldering. Anyone?
     
  9. feilb

    feilb Coco the monkey - Friend

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    Hot air soldering is for one of two things:

    1. Rework (removing components from circuit boards)
    2. Reflow (using solder paste, not solder wire)

    It is not good for most anything you would typically use a soldering iron for. That being said, it is an absolute godsend for reflowing chips with thermal pads or for removing "mistakes".

    I've got one of the UUUUBER cheap 858D chinese hot air stations you can find anywhere online (Amazon, ebay, aliexpress) and it works fan-frickin-tastic. Mine hasnt even started the house on fire yet! Doubles as a great shrink-tube shrinker.

    To be used in addition to a good temperature controlled iron, not instead of..
     
  10. Cspirou

    Cspirou They call me Sparky

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    I had a cheap iron that came with a basic tool set. It didn't get nearly hot enough for anything. Luckily I also had membership to a local makerspace with access to some top electronics tools that gave me some appreciation for what a good soldering iron can do. I now have a Velleman soldering iron and when I get a more permenant workspace I am definitely getting a Hakko. I currently use leaded solder but eventually I would like to move on to lead-free for health/paranoia reasons and I'll need a good soldering iron when working with that stuff.
     
  11. Luckbad

    Luckbad Traded in a unicorn for a Corolla

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    http://www.garage1217.com/garage1217_diy_tube_headphone_amplifiers_016.htm

    I ordered the 70W Blackjack + Smoke Absorber for 10% off at $68. Jeremy says these are awesome and he uses them, and his soldering work is amazing. http://www.circuitspecialists.com/bk3000lff.html
     
  12. Xen

    Xen Friend

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    Looks pretty good! Those Tip/Heating elements are pretty big so should maintain heat pretty well. The smoke absorber seems very interesting, though. Seems like a nice solution to the rosin fumes if you can keep it right above your soldering area.
     
  13. joch

    joch Friend

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    Looks good. Wish I had a smoke absorber. All the fumes from lead solder makes me wonder how much exposure one can take at a time.
     
  14. Ninja Pirate

    Ninja Pirate Friend

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    Do most of you guys use flux?
     
  15. uncola

    uncola Friend

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    I have a little thing of liquid flux and an eye dropper but I'm not sure it really helps for audio cables, maybe it's more a pcb thing? I usually use it...
     
  16. fierce_freak

    fierce_freak Friend

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    I use flux for smd. Rarely for anything else.
     
  17. feilb

    feilb Coco the monkey - Friend

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    Yep, flux pen for SMD. Get the refillable kind! Occasionally, I'll use some on oxidized contacts before i solder to them if i dont have any deoxit handy.
     
  18. Xen

    Xen Friend

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    4 oz of Rosin Flux, another lifetime supply. In fact, I've had it for more than 10 years now. A little dab (almost invisible) on wire ends before tinning. A little dab (pretty much invisible) on the cups for filling with solder.

    That is not lead going up in smoke. That is usually the rosin flux in the core of the solder, which is also not good for your health. Probably better than real lead smoke, though.
     
  19. Jeb

    Jeb Friend

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    Should someone (like me) who is just doing very occasional work take extra precautions against the rosin flux fumes or is this just a cumulative issue for people doing lots of regular soldering?

    I usually just keep a window open close to the work area and try not to suck in too much of the smoke.
     
  20. Xen

    Xen Friend

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    Open window should be good enough. You can add a fan to push the air away from your work area and out the window. Even the EEVBlog guy says his charcoal activate air filtration system is better used as a fan than a filter as long as you have adequate ventilation. YMMV
     

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