Solder and Soldering Irons

Discussion in 'DIY' started by JK47, Nov 28, 2015.

  1. fierce_freak

    fierce_freak Friend

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    Thanks Torq. I have a stereoscopic scope that helps a lot. I also have some tweezers similar to those you linked (but maybe lower quality?). The problem I've ran into with them is having the super fine tips getting bent (yeah, probably bad technique haha). I also tend to send sot-23 devices flying off.

    Should have mentioned this stuff in the first post. It probably just comes down to poor skills ;D
     
  2. Torq

    Torq MOT: Headphone.com

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    That's more than small enough to be a complete pain in the arse! If you can do that sort of thing reliably your hand-eye coordination and stability is up there with some world-class surgeons. Can't say I've bent any tweezer-tips, but I can see how that'd happen.

    With SOT-23 type stuff, and the smaller discrete/passive bits, I tend to cheat a bit, and use ChipQuik sticky-flux and two tools/both hands (one to hold, one to push it off the hold-tool and onto the board), and then let the solder-paste and surface tension finish lining things up in the re-flow oven.

    That, or I just use the automated PnP gear at "work", which can handle the smallest SMT parts with comparative ease (programming it is a Porker, still).
     
  3. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    Titanium tweezers are totally worth the expense. I've yet to bend the tips on my Techni-Tool tweezers.

    If you're curious about the tradeoffs of various kinds of solder, I suggest having a look at my write-up on the topic: http://www.neurochrome.com/choosing-solder/

    Tom
     
  4. Cspirou

    Cspirou They call me Sparky

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    So my father-in-law was an EE and I found this Edsyn dual station while going through his stuff

    1FC89EC4-9B0C-49DA-9C83-F4C9FE7DF070.jpeg

    I tried it out with an SMD practice board and it’s the best iron I have used so far. It’s gets hot and stays hot. One iron has a pointed tip and the other is a chisel tip and I found it handy to have both on at the same time, especially for removing components. Checked the price and it’s $400! Because of this I won’t be getting a Hakko.

    Can anyone comment on using lead-free solder with a reflow oven? I feel like the need for using solder that’s easy to work with is important for hand soldering but less of an issue for an oven. Plus lead might be a bigger concern with an oven since everything is soldered at once and would result in a higher concentration of the fumes.
     
  5. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    I only had plastic tweezer when building my nixie clock with SMD components. They did not work so well... They are not the same shape they started.
     
  6. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    Nice. Now you just need a cleaning sponge for it so you can clean the solder tips. Digikey/Mouser/etc. can hook you up with a cellulose sponge for the exact purpose. Digikey P/N: T0052241999-ND for example (5-pack). There are also some brass wire tip cleaners if you prefer to go that route.

    Soldering temperatures aren't high enough to vaporize the lead, so you don't have to worry about lead poisoning from inhaling the fumes. Just make sure you wash your hands after soldering and don't eat/smoke/suck on your fingers while soldering. The fumes you see when you solder are from the flux burning off.

    That's a common problem with the cheap metal ones too. That's why I recommend getting a titanium pair. I think mine were $40 or so. Sorta pricy for a pair of tweezers but I've only had to buy one pair so far and I've had them for well over a decade.

    Tom
     
  7. Cspirou

    Cspirou They call me Sparky

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    @tomchr - thanks for the advice! I’ve been using a kitchen sponge in the meantime. Don’t know how bad that is.
     
  8. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    well my problem was the tweezers melting. So not like the metal ones.
     
  9. JustAnotherRando

    JustAnotherRando My other bike is a Ferrari

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    I switched from a wet sponge to a steel wool pot scrubber which seems to work better- it cleans the tip extremely effectively with less care and no water needed. It never needs replacement- an occasional shake over a bin will dump out all the beads of solder that collect during usage.
     
  10. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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    I used a wet sponge for years, but after trying out a brass tip cleaner I've switched for good. I never tried steel wool, but I suspect those could potentially scratch the tip (writing that out makes me flinch just a little bit...).
     
  11. Cspirou

    Cspirou They call me Sparky

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    Metal tip cleaners seem to be the way to go. I really hate having a wet sponge near my electronics.

    What do you guys do for disposing lead contaminated waste? I hope it doesn’t just go in the regular trash.
     
  12. Priidik

    Priidik MOT: Estelon

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    Quite recently upgraded to a Weller 2 iron station (from a Yihua). When I researched tips for it, this came up:

    No, it's not ''killing'' any proper pro stations, but for that money and compared to the Yihua or whatever other such dirt it's a very nice iron.
    Highly recommended to get this if Hakko/Weller/Ersa/JBC is out of reach. I power mine from power tool batteries.
     
  13. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    Kitchen sponges are usually made from some type of plastic. It'll melt when you touch it with the soldering iron and contaminate the tip. If it's made of PVC it can create hydrochloric acid which will eat the tip. The water will prevent this some, but I have seen kitchen sponges with burn marks. Not a good idea.

    Trader Joe's in the US does have a pack of cellulose kitchen sponges that look an awful lot like a solder sponge. Those might work. Seriously, though. I'd just toss in a sponge or brass tip cleaner with your next Mouser/Digikey/whatever order.

    The cheap metal tweezers just bend. Then they turn into component launchers. They're not worth the money. Buy a cup of coffee instead - or save for a real pair of tweezers. Like these: http://www.techni-tool.com/758TW430

    Tom
     
  14. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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    One of the most frustrating sounds... the ping as the tweezers slip and the ticktick... tickatickaticka... as your component bounces across the table then floor.
     
  15. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    How about the smell of when you lose grip with the tweezers, component sticks to the iron, and Burns up.
     
  16. Cspirou

    Cspirou They call me Sparky

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    Ok, sponge is gone. I need to make a hazardous waste bin.
     
  17. JoeBinx

    JoeBinx New

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    I grabbed the metal cleaning dispenser thingy, and just ordered my self a solder spooler.... roll holder? Though I'll need to look at getting some serious tweezers here shortly, for now I think I've got everything

    [​IMG]

    waiting for my plastic Table top to arrive, I don't want to solder atop this wood desk... Anti Static mat on top of a 20lb Plastic Slab should work nicely

    This tidbit right here!!! Quoting to get it some more exposure
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2017
  18. tomchr

    tomchr MOT - Neurochrome

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    I usually use a solder sucker (Jonard Tools SP-200, Digikey P/N: K414-ND) for component removal. If there isn't enough solder or flux in the solder joint, it sometimes helps to re-solder and then use the solder sucker. Clean up with solder wick. Rather than scraping the flux off, I use some flux cleaner. Isopropyl alcohol or acetone on a cotton swab works too. Acetone can be rather hard on some components (it eats polystyrene for breakfast), so be careful.

    Tom
     
  19. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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    Slightly topic-tangental, I want to be able to do simple repairs of plastic items. Taking account of the internet's advice to go for low power, I bought a thirty-watt iron. It comes with a screwdriver-shape tip, which seems the thing for plastic.

    I tried it on a plastic box with some cracks in it. My fear was that, in my cack-handedness with a soldering iron, my first effort would push the tip through the plastic. On the contrary, this thing is so gentle, that it leaves me in some doubt that it would actually melt solder!

    Anyway, more experiments in the future. Yes, I know about the fumes: I worked outside under a fan.
     
  20. Armaegis

    Armaegis Friend

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    I work on top of a cheap silicon baking mat. It's reasonably heat resistant and the textured side is good for stopping little components from rolling around.
     

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