Hacking Schiit

Ok...changed out some op amps....

Swapped the DC offset to the OPA1656 first just to see what would happen with the stock op amps and the overall sound. It seemed to have a bit more livelyness, maybe a touch more dynamics, but that could be placebo. Not a huge effect though. The DC offset I imagine is likely really low and must not need must adjustment. Although it did seem to have a bit more transients, but that could be just me.

Swapped the main two op amps for the OPA1656, and yes, much better improvement. I was worried at first because the low end seemed to drop. But then I forgot about multibit warmup. So after a few minutes and few songs, all was right again. And holy crap, it is like this thing found another gear. Dynamics are huge now. Grayness is gone, everything is crisp and clean. Low end is there and not muddy or congested at all. Matter of fact, no congestion at all. I will say the low mids are slightly recessed and the high transients really come through and jump out, so I can see why with an ESS chip might not be a good match.

Overall, it reminds me of the direct Gumblefreya outs. Maybe not AS clean, still just a hair of grain in the mids, but very similar and familiar sound.

Tedious damn work and I would not recommend without Chipquick. But it is certainly worth the upgrade. Highly recommended!

 

Swapped the DC offset to the OPA2156 from the OPA1656 and this is a much better improvement.

So to keep up...current config:

• I/V & Buffer - OPA1656's
• DC offset - OPA2156

With all three OPA1656s's, I have been listening to all day and it does not sound bad, just not as engaging as I originally thought. Initially I had the Modi MB hooked up to my Ragnarok, but I decided today to switch to the Vali 2+ and my Dynalo as those are more suited for what this will be hooked up to. And things just sounded kind of mushy and dry. Things were missing some body and some depth. It almost sounded like congestion and something holding it back.

The OPA2156 arrived today from @ergopower and I had a little time this evening, so I popped it in, cleaned up the board, fired it up, ran through my playlist from today, and man, I like this a lot! Instruments sound like real instruments and vocals are nice and clean, clear, and the transients are quick, and all the congestion is gone. It is still not as warm as the original. This is definitely more neutral sounding, yet still retains that 3D multibit goodness. @Hands I don't know what you have tried for the DC offset, but you should definitely try it.

A couple of words about SOIC - I still have yet to perfect the technique of de-soldering without destroying the op amp itself. I am getting better...only lost two legs instead of 4, but still, I always seem to pull off a few legs. So just be prepared to lose the op amp you are removing. Also, be careful of heat. A couple of my pads lifted off the board. Not for the faint of heart or inpatient.

 

Did my DC servo also, peer pressure Gut reaction: increased soundstage. This config works.

• I/V & Buffer - OPA2156's
• DC offset - OPA2156

I think we triggered a re-stock, was oos yesterday:

Spoiler: DigiKey

 

8120? You mean the T0812? Yes, it is ancient.

 

I wouldn't even consider desoldering without chip quik if I only had an iron.

Hot air reflow makes the process pretty painless for me.

 

Thank you. And thank you as well @Cspirou. The 2156's and ChipQuick SMD-1 is in my cart at Digikey, but likely will have to wait until after the holidays.

And @Cspirou, I have a very small soldering iron tip and it worked rather poorly. Mostly getting under an trying to lift one leg at a time. Like I said, most chips wound up with one or two legs missing because they were being build.

And then yes, a pad or two look slightly lifted, but luckily they are still on the board. A wick would also help as the leftover solder on the pads leaves them raised and thus difficult to place the new SOIC on the pads to solder.

Any suggestions for something other than Q-tips to clean up the leftover flux. Q-tips leave cotton fibers everywhere as it catches on the other parts.

 

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/26249-REG/Kinwipes_EKW341_Kimwipes_4_5_x_8_5.html

also use 99% isopropyl alcohol

 

I use SO MUCH isopropyl alcohol when I DIY. Big squirty bottle of iso and a very soft toothbrush to clean the flux, then canned air to get rid of excess iso. Lather, rinse, repeat, until you are high as a kite from the iso and canned air. Those PCB's gotta be shiny, and that ChipQuik flux is so gross.

 

Yeah, if you can 'chip away' at the flux with a tootbrush, it takes a lot less iso. For through hole, I'll just pick away at it with my nails a little bit as well, makes a big difference to how quickly you can get it clean.

 

I never use enough alcohol, and then I get that ugly skim layer of diluted flux residue all over the board...

 

Can anyone help with where the fuse is on the Schitt LIM, wanted to try a different fuse. Took top off and its a metal box, took bottom off and its the board? Im a noob with this stuff so any help much appreciated
best

 

I shouldn't enable such tomofoolery, but......



I'd wager if this is under a metal box under the top lid, it is not intended to be changed except when absolutely necessary.

 

thanks, looks way to complicated to get to

 

Thanks Marv

 

Would anyone know if the current version of Schiit DACs have implemented light pipes yet? I always remembered aligning the LEDs to be the most tedious part.

 

I use this method: https://microphone-parts.com/pages/how-to-clean-pcbs-after-soldering