Philips SHP9600 Review, Measurements, Mods

Lots of things more important than resolution. Which is why the only headphone Ive kept long term (10-15years) is Koss Porta Pro. Tonally nice n warm without harshness or tubbiness, open airy soundstage, non-fatiguing and non-boring. Non- sound characterstics more important than resolution too: convenient and comfortable form factor, cheap, and neat looking without drawing attention.

Closing baffle vents adds a bass pressurization type fatigue. Usually only experience this pressurized feel on my ear drums with some closed phones and very few open phones (HD58X). Obvious difference in tone but didnt listen long because pressure fatigue.

After reading your post Hands then Marv’s Loki+ review Ive come to a conclusion: SHP9600-P is good minus some peaks in the highs that may easily be addressed with EQ. If these were expensive headphones Id need them to be better.

THE END

 

Ive been using these exclusively past few days and have adjusted to the highs. They are not offensive or painful. Just tonally a little brighter than I prefer. HD600 vs HD650 type of thing.

These headphones are convenient and comfortable and sound great. Porta Pro replacement, high praise. 6XX replacement, without a doubt. THX00 replacement, nope. Closing the cups on SHP9600-P sounded terrible (so did putting closed cups on a 6XX ).

Headphone lot arrived yesterday. Drivers package eta is tomorrow. Will send to chacha asap - enjoy!

 

One corner is enough to push and unseat driver with flathead screwdriver while retaining dust screen mostly.

edit: Didnt get so lucky on other side, so made symmetrical.


edit2: Remove excess adhesive goop before installing new drivers. Driver membrane is extremely delicate. Still not sure on safest way to deposit into cup.

edit3: Test install with old drivers to make sure enough goop was cleared. Be mindful of wires, you should tape back the wires.

edit4: Seal driver in place with thin strips of damplifier pro. Careful not to cover up back of driver paper. Then solder, return cup grills and pads. Done.

edit5: Try to keep things symmetrical throughout for L/R. Driver north-south orientation and holes in driver dust grill. Dont know if it matters, but may as well just in case.

 

In the past I've unseated drivers with minimal damage using a hobby knife to remove the glue around the circumference, doing several careful passes if needed, then use a flat-head screwdriver to gain leverage from the driver holder against the side of the driver capsule to unseat it (generating a small dent on the side of the capsule at worst).