The All Purpose Advice Thread

Random amazon search finds this retro gem for $7...
https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-A1602-Splitter-Connecting-Devices/dp/B00HNCPR92/

edit 1: some more choices here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=little+bear+rca+switch&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

edit 2: maybe this guy with bluetooth for poops and giggles? https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Audio-Selector-Bluetooth-Amplifier/dp/B07CGF5RZF/

edit 3: or this one used in reverse: https://www.amazon.com/Switch-Stereo-Switcher-Selector-Splitter/dp/B085W1PPHL/

 

I was actually looking for the same thing. But I’m trying to avoid random Chinese stuff from Amazon or Aliexpress.

 

@Armaegis - Figured most passive switchers were just “wires with a switch in the middle” but wasn’t completely sure if they could be run in reverse due to whatever else may or may not be inside, etc. Do you know if most passive switches happen to be reverseable?

 

If it's solely a switcher they can usually be reversed. Like you said, wire with a switch. if it's a 'matrix' thing with multiple inputs, has a gain control or power they often don't work or will act funky. Some do, they usually state the fact.

I've been down the road with the < $100 switchers (Little Bear, GOHIFIAUDIO, Nobsound, etc) and with most of the cheapo passive amplifier\switches out there. They sound like crap, categorically. Unless someone here can specifically state "I've heard this one and its good" please don't waste your money. Maybe live with a splitter until you can save a few bucks and buy a good brand. Or build your own, there're a few threads around here about how to do it.

 

A simple(r) solution that requires a modicum more hand-on work for switching is to get yourself an RCA extension cable rather than a regular RCA cable. It will have a male end that you plus into your source, and female ends on the other. Since you were already planning to have a switcher and turning a knob, this process is a quick unplug/replug to the appropriate device downstream.

 

You might try this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089FX2NRR

If you feel the switch is degrading the sound then replace the internal rotary switch with this:
2P-4T-1D for $75
https://www.goldpt.com/prices.html
scroll down to rotary switches

For approximately $130 US and some soldering you have something approaching goldpoint SW4:
https://www.goldpt.com/sw4.html
which is $376 US.

 

Buying ZMF you should be able to recoup almost all of your initial purchase cost selling on the second hand market as long as the set you are selling are like new/ pristine. The production time for ZMF varies, but it can be a couple of months or more. Purchasing used can be attractive to persons wanting to skip the wait.

I have two sets of ZMF Aeolus. They are the last headphones in my collection that I would sell. The basic Clear OG is also a good choice.

 

I need some advice on whether or not I need to invest in a dedicated streamer. I have a relatively good headphone setup: Bifrost 2 > Quicksilver Headphone Amp > ZMF Auteur w/ 2K Copper cable (just sold my Verite Closed but plan to get another one during next LTD release).

For a couple of years I have been using my iPhone as my only source. I use Tidal about 95% of the time for streaming music. I connect the iPhone to the Bifrost 2 via USB using the Apple CKK adapter. To my ears the sound quality is excellent using this method.

Every once in a while I look at the $4500 worth of audio equipment next to me and feel incredibly silly to be using a phone as my source. Am I creating a bottleneck using the iPhone? I wonder if I would hear a big difference if I bought something like the iFi Zen Stream or Pi2AES for my Tidal streaming. Has anyone made a similar move to a dedicated streamer from a phone source and noticed a noticeable upgrade in sound?

 

Hey there! I moved from a computer to a Pi2aes with a bifrost 2, so I think I was in a (roughly) analogous situation to yours. Personally, I heard a pretty noticeable difference, but not a -massive- one. It's not as if you're going to switch to a Pi2aes and your chain is going to sound completely different. Your bifrost 2 will still sound like a bifrost 2, and given that the bifrost 2 has unison, it's not as if gobs of new details are suddenly going to be coming in, either.

What you will get from this switch (in my experience) is a somewhat more clear, focused sound, with more well-delineated images and a better sense of overall "presence" to the music. It's sort of like changing out a slightly hazy lens for a somewhat clearer one. It's a nice upgrade, and if you've spent $4500 on gear, I think it's well worth another $200 dollars or so, but it's not something that's mandatory.

 

@dematted I appreciate you taking the time to share your experience! Like you said, I think it would be prudent to spend the relatively small amount of money to see what, if anything, I’m missing. I am a little intimidated by the Pi2AES even after reading through the thread here. I might wait on the Mercury to get released or try the Zen Stream since it’s readily available. Thanks again!

 

FWIW - I put off buying the pi2aes for a long time. I wouldn't say it's mandatory and I really don't like most of the interface options available. But in terms of total sonic improvement, you're going to have to spend much more than $200-300 to improve sound by the same amount that pi2aes would with your current gear.

 

I would suggest starting with a Chromecast Audio (CCA) which uses optical AES/SPDIF. That will give you a good sense for how using the other inputs contrasts to Unison USB. It's simple to use and an excellent streamer for running Spotify, Tidal, Roon, UPNP etc



The other streamers you mention are a big step up in complexity and cost from the CCA, and a small step up in what they can achieve.

 

Hi all, I'm looking to upgrade the DAC in my current chain: SDAC > WA6-SE > HD650.
If I wasn't always moving between 110v and 230v countries I would probably just buy a Bifrost 2 and be done with it, but as it stands I'm looking for a DAC with universal voltage and good SE output that can help me get the most from my WA6-SE.
Any recs would be most appreciated - thanks!

 

What's your budget?

If your source is a computer, you could just stick with a USB dac.

 

Best case would be under $800, and I'm also willing to buy used.

My source is a computer, so my current SDAC fits the bill being USB powered but I'm not aware of many other USB powered DACs except for the Modius. I believe the iFi and Soekris stuff can also take universal voltage.

 

iFi Zen DAC Signature is quite good for under $300.

Denafrips Ares2 has a 120V/230V conversion switch. A used Chord Qutest could be had for $800.

 

Is this heading down the dark path of audio nervousa? I'm considering getting an electrician to install a dedicated line from my power board into my guest room where my audio gear lives. The thing is my audio gear currently shares the power board circuit with my gaming PC, anoter bedroom and my fridge in the kitchen. I get these sort of weird transformer hums, ground loops and whatever problems. I figure maybe this is the first step in trying to remedy this. I'm thinking maybe $500 or whatever it will be might be worth it - as it gets my gaming PC, fridge and audio gear off the same circuit.

 

Maybe further down the $$ hole, but if your power lines are easily accessible (like if you have a drop ceiling basement?), maybe this would be a time to consider running or splitting more lines around the house? the electrician charges for mobilization regardless, so this will decrease your cost per line.

If you have an old circuit breaker panel, it also might be worth considering upgrading the entire thing. In this case I'm specifically pointing fingers at old stab-lok panels which are safety hazards.

p.s. it's way easier justifying audio upgrades when you loop them into house safety upgrades!

 

not audio nervosa at all... clean power is a good thing

 

The Clears aren't even close t the resolution of the HD800 IMO. I just had them both here, one fully modded HD800 and one just SDR modded. The Clears are nice out of the Stratus, but they can't touch the resolution of the HD800.

Resolution isn't the only thing to consider in a pair of headphones, keep that in mind. The Clears are much more balanced in terms of FR. Unless you have a very specific amp and fully modded HD800....