Speaker building all by yourself

Hard to do apples-to-apples comparisons with actives. The tweeter and mid are probably in the nineties, whilst the woofer sensitivity can be inferred from max SPL, but there are plenty of "buts". I've never had a stand speaker match the dynamics of a 12" floorstander.

That might prove more interesting. Especially the PSI. Still - those prices include amplification and in the case of Kii - DSP and conversion as well.

 

I have uploaded REW measurement report and did some analysis, for those interested:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ssUXULXh32tTUE7UA

Yes, but the difference in dynamics was also apparent at medium level, where I wouldn't expect driver power compression to be a factor. Oh well, maybe that was the frequency response being rather different in 100-200Hz, making it hard to fairly volume-match. (I used dBA on Pink Noise..)
Actually, the measurements do show better time domain behavior on the Saisho.

The Saisho cost me 2k$ in material, but as a first DIY project, the learning curve was steep, so indeed labor cost is through the roof .
-> 5*(2k$ + 100h*10$ (I'm cheap)) + 1k$ amp + 1k$ DAC/cables + = 17k$
I don't even count the endless iterations on damping and cross over: you can't put a price on fun and knowledge buildup.
On Friday I did not have time to try the KH310 in a different position; subjective impressions remained the same.

I'll stop here to not hijack this thread.

 

After doing a bit of searching I think Osmo based in Germany seems close. Especially their Wood Wax finish.


Going to see where I can get it in France

 

So it's general knowledge that you should build speakers from MDF or plywood. If I want to use solid wood, what are exceptions to this or at least cases where the difference is small enough where it doesn't matter?

Some cases where I believe it's not an issue:

-open baffles
-small satellite single drivers
-BLH or transmission lines with a lot of bracing
-Horns

 

I would think the biggest issue with using solid wood is the lack of consistency in density in larger blank sizes. the more dense the wood, and the more consistent the density through larger blanks is where costs get exorbitant and prohibitive. Unless you're looking for a specific resonant characteristic of the wood, like tone woods, manufactured wood products are just going to be so much more consistent per $ and across multiple pieces and sources. MDF is MDF. Baltic ply is baltic ply (of the same grade, of course).

 

Main reason I ask is because I’m primarily doing woodworking with hand tools. MDF and plywood are crap with hand tools and I was looking for some solid wood builds

the one place where I see it regularly used is with open baffles

 

Main reason I have heard against solid wood is that it may bend or crack when drying and ageing, not because of sonics.

Afaik Bönicke is building speakers from solid wood.

I have seen some guy who has not only build his cabinet from solid wood, but has chosen dimensions of the parts in such a way, that their lengths equal the frequencies of full notes/tones.
Maybe a bit over the top, but an interesting idea

 

In that case (and if looks aren't a big concern) then just using something like poplar would probably be fine. It grows fast and has loose/open grain, and it super easy to work with hand tools. It's cheap, too. Not great for holding tolerances, but for an OB with surface mounted drivers, it'd probably be fine.

 

I would specifically choose dimensions that were not a multiple/fractional of fundamental note frequencies otherwise that would give you some really wonky resonances and reinforcements or nulls coming from the cabinet.

 

It seemed like a good idea at the time, and looked great in the brochures?

Without your informed post, it would have taken me in, for starters!

 

I guess the argument works in both ways. Yes, excitment by fundamentals is not desirable. On the other hand - if you cannot suppress cabinet resonances - wouldn't it be nice if they would be even order harmonics at least?

I have seen this for a widebander. Cabinet height at estimated 60 cm. This would equal something around 580 Hz - out of bass range. And the widebander not being capable of putting out lots of energy anway.

However, that was just an interesting aside of my comment. More to the point may be the fact, that people using kind of solid wood are using either:

- butcher type of block wood
- laminated beech wood

 

From a woodworking perspective, the problem is that wood swells and shrinks with humidity, and it does so at hugely different rates depending upon grain orientation. Which is to say, the length doesn't change much, but the width can change by several percentage points. With a six sided box from solid wood, at some point, there will be an end grain to side grain joint. At best it will warp the box, and at worst it will tear it apart. This is why six sided solid wood cabinets tend to be rail and stile with floating panels. Here's a gratuitous picture of my kitchen cabinets that I built out of solid wood as an example The side panels are floating within grooves.

 

When I think about it the few manufacturers that do incorporate solid wood do it only for the front baffle. Or it’s a huge solid chunk they carved out

I’ll probably attempt a semi-solid build and see how that goes

 

That's beautiful!

 

I had my open-backed cabinets made from solid Canadian pine with minimal bracing, but they are designed to resonate and be lively. no issues with warping through two summers and winters. they are pretty large, I don't know what type of speakers you are thinking, but I can share the dimensions.