Comments on Profile Post by E_Schaaf

  1. Superexchanger
    Superexchanger
    This might be a terrible idea or not work at all depending on the thread density, but I've had luck in the past shimming very thin bits of toothpick into worn wood holes. Should work on metal sleeves as well but YMMV.
    Apr 24, 2020
    Lyander and SeanT like this.
  2. Cspirou
    Cspirou
    Is this in wood? I've heard a tip from speaker building that if the hole wears out from repeated driver removal, you can fill in the hole with a synthetic lacquer to make a plasticized hole that's stronger
    Apr 24, 2020
    E_Schaaf, Lyander and SeanT like this.
  3. E_Schaaf
    E_Schaaf
    I did the toothpick trick with the custom stands on my Maggie 3.6's while I still had them. The holes on the 900 cups (yes they're wood) are a bit too small for that to work though, unless I used a single splinter. Lacquer might be the trick, my first attempt was to wrap the screws in micropore tape to try to thicken them. Unsuccessful lol
    Apr 24, 2020
  4. Biodegraded
    Biodegraded
    Presuming the micropore was too thick - plumber's tape?
    Apr 24, 2020
    Superexchanger likes this.
  5. LetMeBeFrank
    LetMeBeFrank
    Maybe try wood glue. Lightly grease the screw and stick it in the glue. Once the glue dries, the screw should come out and leave threads in the glue. This worked perfectly on a speaker box I made from mdf that had the holes stripped.
    Apr 24, 2020
    skem, Azimuth and Biodegraded like this.