ECP Torpedo III [indexed in first post]

Discussion in 'Headphone Amplifiers and Combo (DAC/Amp) Units' started by FlySweep, Nov 2, 2015.

  1. ersthwil

    ersthwil New

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    Unfortunately my ad2ks are likely going to be sidelined for the time being. I don't have the time or space for more than one setup, though the GLite/DPS + ad2k combo held me over for so many years I may hang onto them for a while longer. Funny thing - I thought your name sounded familiar, turns out I bought my GLite/DPS from you years ago.

    General/toob-noob question: are 12AZ7s different from 12AZ7As? I've seen both on ebay. Also, what's a reliable source for some of these tubes? I'd be interested in hearing the TIII with 7062s and 6829s as well, for the sake of comparison.
     
  2. dsavitsk

    dsavitsk Friend

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    They are the same tube.

    There are lots of sources, but if you want to get something that is tested and has someone standing behind it, I have had good luck with Brent Jesse. You'll pay a little more, but not really that much, and avoid a lot of potential hassle.
     
  3. Jun

    Jun Friend

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    The Torpedo III is so detailed and resolving it's almost too much of a good thing; I feel like I have the HD 850's now. I might want to smooth out those details.

    Can tube rolling help smooth out the sound especially in the treble area? I have the stock Electro Harmonix 12AY7 tubes and the T3 seems a bit sparkly in the treble area. If tube rolling doesn't effect the sound dramatically I probably don't want to start rolling.
     
  4. Mr.Sneis

    Mr.Sneis Friend

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    The stock tubes are NOT doing you any favors!!
     
  5. brencho

    brencho Friend

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    i really enjoy the amperex 7062 over the AY7. They run ~40 a pair on the bay. Curious what other tubes people have tried and liked.
     
  6. Hands

    Hands Overzealous Auto Flusher - Measurbator

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  7. TomB

    TomB MOT: Beezar

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    I think the 12AZ7's are the real sleepers for the T3, especially for high impedence like the HD800.
     
  8. drfindley

    drfindley Secretly lives in the Analog Room - Friend

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    I have some Telefunken 12AZ7s I should try. The Mullard ones are a bad and flabby combo though.
     
  9. jowls

    jowls Never shitposts (please) - Friend

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    Oh damn, I love Valhalla with my HD650, but this has given me a serious case of the "what-if's..."

    Would T3 be unrealistic as a first build?
     
  10. dsavitsk

    dsavitsk Friend

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    Depends. If your personality is such that you are willing to go slow and be very meticulous, then you should be OK. If you get frustrated quickly with small fiddly things, and you try to rush through and short change a project to get to the end, buy one that is assembled. Regardless, practice soldering on some dummy boards.
     
  11. brencho

    brencho Friend

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    @MisterRogers what were the Brimars you had in your TIII that Hands keeps raving about?

    @drfindley pls let us know how you like the telefunkens!
     
  12. Mr.Sneis

    Mr.Sneis Friend

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    I did not build my particular T3 however after having taken it apart and looking at it myself, IMO it would be a good starter project. It would certainly be easier than any build where you need to deal with casing, drilling, and screenprinting on your own or a point to point project.

    If you do it, don't skimp on your tools but I think that's what everyone would tell you.
     
  13. JWahl

    JWahl Acquaintance

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    It was my first build, but I have some soldering background already. I wouldn't recommend the Mundorf caps on your first build though. They're a pain. I got mine in, but they look terrible and probably isn't ideal, but sounds good.
     
  14. JWahl

    JWahl Acquaintance

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    A quick question for @dsavitsk. Does the T3 output invert the phase/polarity relative to the input? Like my previous Trafomatic amp, I find the imaging to seem more precise and less fatiguing on most music with the source polarity inverted. This was not the case with the Valhalla 2, which specifically mentions being "non-inverting". So I'm suspecting it inverts the output, but want to verify.
     
  15. Impulse

    Impulse Friend

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    Do they require any extra ventilation? I remember seeing one user rework his case for that, but if TomB is selling it as an option I'd imagine they'd be fine if installed as described on the tweaks page... Am I right or one too many assumptions on my part?
     
  16. Jun

    Jun Friend

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    I am also worried about heat on my mundorf caps since it says it's rated at 85c and the tubes might reach those temps.

    I did touch my tubes and it wasn't very hot. I guess I shouldn't be too worried.
     
  17. bazelio

    bazelio Friend

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    I doubt it, they way the tubes protrude out of the case. But if really worried, maybe drill some ventilation holes above the caps, like those above the heat sinks on this power supply case:

    [​IMG]
     
  18. ald0s

    ald0s Facebook Friend

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    Got my T3 built with mundorfs, cinemags and RCA black plates. Heads and shoulders above anything else I've tried. Running modded 650s from a Gungnir Multibit - truly an endgame sound :)

    My mundorfs clear the tubes fairly well but are VERY close to the cinemags. One might even be slightly touching it near the bottom but i can't see clearly enough. Have electrical tape over the wire so it won't short but should i get back in there and make a little bit more space?
     
  19. dsavitsk

    dsavitsk Friend

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    The place you want to be most careful is where the flat parts of the caps are close to each other. There you have two high voltage and 2 low voltage leads quite close together (the leads close to the output transformers are low voltage). We are in the process of making delrin spacers to place in there to hold things apart - we should have them in a week or two. We'll also have updated build instructions.

    Additionally, I strongly suggest some silicon glue to hold the parts in place and create space between the caps (insert cardboard spacers until the glue cures). I used Dow Corning 748 which you can get from McMaster-Carr and which is meant for electronics.
     
  20. TomB

    TomB MOT: Beezar

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    After building quite a few of these and listening to the comments of others in this thread, we all came to the conclusion that the heat is not a big deal. Now, that might change if you use a pair of those tubes that draw a lot more current than spec'd, so keep an eye on it if that's the case.

    As far as the 85 deg. C. is concerned, you'll find that most of the caps in the Torpedo are rated at that temperature, anyway. It probably gets just as hot back by the PT as by the tubes and the primary power capacitors are back there - and haven't caused a problem.
     

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