RAAL requisite audio SR1a Review: HOLY MOLY! Buy this now!

Hahaha. I thought I was so done with headphones. But I want one of them! Sure, it looks like some kind of sci-fi device, but the ergonomics are top shelf, on par with Dan / MrSpeakers designs which I think are the best in the business.

Vidar, a moderately priced megawatt pro audio class D amp, an old class 200W in 4-ohms AB pro audio amp, etc. This is the beauty of it I love the fact that no speshal amp is necessary. And that the "demo" I sat through had indicated that a megabuck option was not a necessity. Although this might be interesting to try out on @brencho's Dartzeel. Lastly, the price is high, but it's like like punch in the stomach ridiculous like a $10k class D amp stuff in FPE chassis or a $2 IEM running three different types of drivers with severe coherence issues. The RAAL drivers have always been serious high-end parts with a great reputation.

The box that RAAL | requisite audio provides is pretty straightforward: all simple passive components. It's not like STAX which requires 500-600V bias voltage, and then a huge 1:20 step-up transformer, which is going to affect sound quality.he box that RAAL | requisite audio provides is pretty straightforward: all simple passive components. It's not like STAX which requires 500-600V bias voltage, and then a huge 1:20 step-up transformer, which is going to affect sound quality.

If no local dealer for you, maybe we can snag one for you here and ship it down. I'm going to see what we can do to get this in for a limited loaner among a few members.

As others have concurred, there is some roll-off. It's an open baffle design, so it's going to happen. Folks with the PAP Trio designs will have rolloff starting around 50Hz. My big JBLs with the 18" ports rolloff around 40Hz. Yet the overall bass performance of these speakers is nothing short of stunning.

 

Some stuff got cut off from my last post...

The appeal of the SR1a to me is the tactility and textural rendering. It does this in a way that reminds me of traditional dynamic drivers, but almost needless to say, with better "speed". Neither the STAX nor the modern thin-diaphragm HFMs have this tactility. And as Psalm said, the HD600/650, even the HD800 to some extent have sort of a "silly-putty" bass. The volume levels aren't quite there in the lowest octaves, but the bass is fast and punchy. Reminds me more of the bass from the guys who are in the BWC (Big Woofer Club) here.

 

I presume the resistors are there to present an acceptable load to the amplifier since the impedance is 0.2-ohms, unless the amplifier is an ARC welder. Probably not the most efficient solution and I bet the resistors dissipate a lot of heat. This explains why 100W+ into 8-ohm amps are being recommended.

A speciality amplifier might be interesting. Low voltage, high current. A 5V power rail would be more than enough. Opposite of tube amps. Think of it like the EL Lay River (when it has water). Slow flow, but a ton of water being moved.

 

Not too high. There's no such thing as not enough power. Up to the user or driver of the car to be judicious.

 

One Vidar was fine (see below). Not saying two can't be better, but I don't agree that dual Vidars would be the minimum. I'd rather not put the cart before the horse. The transducer will make the most difference. Even with the below modest setup, I don't remember any STAX rig shocking me like this. This is coming from someone who went down the STAX path with T2 DIY.



The point that I wanted to make is that this can be had for mere mortals since the amping costs are not high. Heck, if you want dumb power, pick up some used Crest CA2 or QSC RME850a for $200 each and run them in mono. Or a vintage GAS Ampzilla for less than a grand. Throw in a Mackie Big Knob or JBL Nano Patch for volume. Automatic TOTL setup (with room to grow) for less than $4k. It's not like STAX where any STAX amp below $3k sounds like ass, and best option is to buy a DIY amp from some dude in Iceland.

As I said, if I can get my hands of the SR1a and you guys are still curious about the Temple of True High-End, I'm headed over to @brencho's place to try on his Dartzeels which is stable into 2-ohms. I bet Willy has some awesome stuff too.

I would still maintain that a specialty direct drive amp designed for high current but low voltage would be ideal. Less losses due to heat. I'd love to help Jason out on an EQ curve too if he goes forward with this project. I figure a small notch and a bass shelf is all that is needed for close to perfection.

 

In time. Not to take away from @Zhanming057, but I want to keep a separate and different perspective, at least for now. Also, you guys know my preferences, a known quantity over years, so this allows you to calibrate or triangulate to your own.

I don't know if many of you guys are aware, but I don't read others impressions so that I am not influenced by them. Not too different from the ground rules at the Schiit blind test for amps where we were advised to just take notes and only share thoughts after the session had ended.

BTW, this was why it was hilarious when one fellow turned to me and said in a low voice "f**k amp A". I'm sure everyone else in the room heard him.