The All Purpose Advice Thread

If possible go for it. For something that we use a lot spending a bit more to gain comfort is worth it.

 

Thanks, that's what I'll do. I was more asking in general just to see what other's experiences were. They're asking $150, which I'm ok with since it's been such a long time, and the earpiece has a bunch of expensive "extras", which that includes. It's a small price for a presumably better fitting, more usable, product

 

I think 150 is a rather reasonable price, you may get cheaper elsewhere, but Noble did craft the CIEM and should know the tuning better than anyone else. This time do return it if the fit isn't good though! No point paying too much 150s.

 

I came across a 240V Theta Gen Va on ebay. Theta's faq says they don't service it so the factory won't change the power supply. Is it worth bringing a dac from overseas just to run it off a step up transformer?

 

*step down transformer. FTFY

Well considering the Thetas are tough to come by, if it's considerably cheaper than Yggdrasil/Gungnir Multibit than it may be worthwhile. I'd go for one of the newer MB DACs myself, but that is just one opinion.

 

Could you post a link to it here when it's done? Tks!

 

I'm selling off my Chord Mojo as I'm fed up of the slightly scratchy treble, and fed up of looking like I am carrying a Fisher Price bomb around in my bag (it's banded with a DX90). I'm thinking of getting a GOV2+ to replace it for portable use. I use Oppo PM-3s on the go (I don't like IEMs). I read through the GO thread but still have a few questions.

Question 1: Do I need the Infinity? If the non-Infinity is already technically superior to the Mojo and/or already outperforms my headphones I would be happy to save the money.

Question 2: I know the GO is supposed to be a really good Sabre implementation, but is there any vestige of weird Sabre treble timbre? I don't mean unpleasant glariness or etch, just timbral inaccuracy, e.g., the way it can make overdriven guitar sound like candy (DX90 implementation I thought was chronically bad in this respect).

Question 3: is it practicable to use it on a daily commute banded with a phone? This is a polite way of asking if it is it likely to fall apart.

Thanks y'all!

 

I have a Bifrost Uber without USB, that I am looking to use it with my Laptop. I am wondering if the Schiit USB card the best option under $150 or is their a better choice? I am thinking that in the future I may upgrade the Bifrost to Multibit or get a Modi Multibit.

 

Considering the Modi Multibit is already the better DAC at $250, it doesn't really make sense to pay $100 to put a card in the Bifrost. If you must have a solution now consider something like the Singxer F-1 or wait for the Schiit DDC that is pending release.

 

So this is all theory as I am not itching to upgrade.

The Asgard 2 puts out 1w into 50 ohm and I listen mainly to the LCD-2 these days. Supposedly Audeze recommends at least 4w.

I really like the sound of the Asgard 2 but I am curious what more powerful amps people would recommend for the LCD-2 given I guess a $1,000 price limit. Things other then Schiit would be appreciated.

 

Consider the NFB-1AMP. 8W into 40ohm, class A output, superb volume control implementation. Take the money you save and put it into a 4-pin XLR cable.

http://audio-gd.com/Pro/Headphoneamp/NFB1AMP/NFB1AMPEN_Specs.htm

 

The only thing with that is if it breaks dealing with shipping back to China and the language barrier. Bleh.

 

This is the German monoprice or equivalent:

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/519usWozPKL._SL1000_.jpg

I assume that if running a device like this it's better when it has it's own PSU. The question is:

Would a Xonar STX II SPDIF be better than this one? I'd love to miss out on an additional card to install as my gpu takes 3,5 slots (Arctic IV is a monster).

 

IIRC you bought the NFB-28, right? Any view on whether the 1AMP is much of an improvement over the 28? (I know the 28 has the DAC included).

 

Simply going off the knowledge of a friend who recommended the 28 to me, the 1AMP should be near identical in design and any benefits will come from the more dedicated power components. I suspect it's a little better, but not worth purchasing the 1AMP and 1DAC separately instead of the 28.

 

Does anyone have experiences with Sony's top wireless/BT-model MDR-1000X?

It's gotten some good reviews and seems to compare favorably to Bose QC-35. If I understand correctly, it's sound has lots of similarities to MDR-1A - I quite liked those.

Thanks, folks!

 

Hard to say, could be possible that either sounds better. I'm still sticking to good ole USB.

 

This is about the JVC HA-DX3.

@takato14 , years ago I had this headphone and I loved it. I did not keep it because I preferred the K240DF at the time. Thing is, this JVC headphone is awesome and sounds like an open K240DF, just more fun.

Sorry for the late reply.

 

I'm thinking about slowly building another headphone setup. I'm debating if I should begin with purchasing the Schiit Yggdrasil and temporarily using a Vali 2 to start -or- go the the other way around with purchasing a Zana Deux Super and temporarily using my Chord Mojo as the DAC?

I have a line on a black Yggdrasil so that's what prompted me to think about pulling the trigger on a new rig. I have not fully decided on the amp-- in an ideal world, I would opt for the Black Widow over the Zana Deux Super because it is cheaper and easier to live with as a solid state amp. However the Black Widow is hard to find and I'm thinking to just order the Zana Deux Super and order a silver Schiit DAC closer to when the Zana Deux Super ships. Not sure.

 

Can anyone help me out on getting the right size cable sleeving & heat shrink tubing for a power cable with hospital grade plugs?

Searching on Amazon & eBay gives me literally 1,000's of results & the biggest heat shrink tube is at a diameter of 3/4, which I don't think will fit over the many hospital grade type plugs on my power cables.

What is generally recommended if anyone ever used them?