The vintage Ortho thread

Not much effect in this case. I was hoping for more even trebles. Meh. Different headphones, thinner felt.

Edit: *Blue line is strat pads, Green line is before. Wool still removed.
Edit2: Next mod is a return to stock sorta. Wish i could mod these well, interesting headphones with the special magnets and mostly great sound. Would like to hear the driver in another enclosure. The thick grill triggers my audiophile nervosa. Don't think YH-2 is better (except a bit smoother at the cost of resolution/speed) but it's more comfortable (t10 pads too small for it's cups) and doesn't have the grill, so I want to go back to modding Yamaha and revisit Fostex later. @rhythmdevils is lending me his T10, comparison when they arrive.

 

Not recommend

 

find a T20V1 and stick some circumaural pads on them

 

Reversed wool and foam location.





(Actually the wool was a bit ragged and drooping into the driver/magnet area originally. Flipping them around means the foam can block the wool from getting into driver.)

 

I gorilla glued the pads back on. Light dab except in areas of screws so still accessible for mods.

The edge of the cups touch my ears. Too uncomfortable for me to want to invest time in modding much. Except when I just put them back on and hear them again I think to myself that these are really good and maybe if I could tweak them just so...

T20v1 I imagine has the grill. What about v2?

 

Another reason I'm not having a lot of fun with T10 is because it is difficult to get consistent measurements.

When I opened the cups originally the wool was more deformed on one side than the other. One side had wool drooping down towards driver, and the other looked like a perfectly shaped puck. I discarded some of the droopy bits. Anyways, I think the condition/thickness of wool may be related to imbalance. Switching the foam/wool around in the "return to stock sorta" finds an imbalance. The marred wool I think is a factor. And the damping layers switched I think means less seal directly around back of driver. When the wool is first then there is a much denser layer sealed around the driver/magnets. I can't reuse the old wool because the l/r pieces are unequal. Will try replacing with felt and messing around with cup seal.

 

Best measurements I could get after 5 tries. The pads may be just too worn as well.

 

Is the T20v1 driver the same as in the T10?

 

No... Does T10 driver easily transfer to T20 enclosure?

 

T10 to classifieds.

 

LOL! Love the no BS attitude, whoever, I'm slowly exploring solutions to the comfort + sound problems of the T10, including the design of a 3D-printable (flexible) baffle adapter that would allow one to mount the T50RP pancake pads for increased comfort and hopefully decent sound. Is this of any interest to you?

 

Yeah. Of course, interested.

I havent spent much time listening to these headphones because they assault my ears. The pads dont cover entire front baffle and are too thin for this much clamp. As I type about T10 - I will have the YH-2 on. :/

 

At least leave them stock and keep them until you get my modded pair in the mail. They shipped today. . should be 3 days.

 

to close the loop on a few questions.

The T10 and T20v1 share the same yolk and cup which later evolved into the RP series which has no resemblance to them

Same driver - no, more classic round hole magnets. Same mounting - yes, so might be possible to transfer. T20V2 - same driver but housing more aligned to the T50/40/20RP that we now know.

Funnily enough I can wear these for hours, we can now insert whatever over/undersized head jokes to the amusement of all.

..dB

 

aaa

Ill put em back to how I found them or better.

The stratocaster mod was an excuse to try and add some comfort. Distancing my ears from cup lip and adding felt barrier while improving treble sounded like wins. Instead, loss of seal simply equaled less bass. Normally thats the deal but hoped otherwise since it worked out for Strat that one time. Also, the leather pads cover the outer perimiter of baffle driver/ear holes. The felt breaks that wall and maybe that couldve been something for improving soundstage atleast.

 

Maybe my ears are big. For the better to hear with.

 

Covering the vents with tape (painters) from the outside. Not a completely sealed cup. Where headband joint attaches there is plenty of leak - easy to see when disassembled. To seal up cup completely would need to be done from inside cup.

Next I would like to try sealing up completely with micropore tape (porous) since that would be closer to what the wool did originally (seal with a semi-breathable material). The wool is more absorbent though so am going to leave in the cup.

@spoony RE: 3DP baffle: Looking forward to what you come up with for grill. Even if cannot completely avoid covering some magnet holes it would still be easily much less restrictive than stock. Don't know how much grill effects sound though.

 

T10 micropore sealed vents with wool removed VS wool removed only

Removing wool lead to better LEFT/RIGHT balance. I tried to take pic of unequal thickness L vs R wool pucks but it didn't show well with my cracked iPhone camera. Going to try felt instead of wool for sake of balance.
Next!

 

First design would be a pressure-fit adapter that 'extends' the existing baffle to fit other types or pads, next design would be a replacement baffle, but that's going to take some time.

 

Replaced wool circle with similar diameter of craft felt.

The damping materials get smooshed up pretty well to back of driver once closed back up so air has to filter through damping materials. Getting a little better at getting a seal as can see. LEFT/RIGHT balance also much better and mostly looks exclusive to regular EARS/compensation issue and positioning.