Turntable / Vinyl Accessories & Furniture

Discussion in 'Vinyl Nutjob World: Turntable and Related Gear' started by shaizada, Mar 1, 2016.

  1. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    probably better than my thin particleboard goodwill entertainment center.
     
  2. spwath

    spwath Hijinks master cum laudle

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    What do you think, I can get it for $50 now. Worth it, or leave it because of issues?
    Its a 2.5ftx1.5ftx4" slab, a nice size.
     
  3. Skyline

    Skyline Double-blindly done with this hobby

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    Okay, so this thread has been almost exclusively about furniture, but the title DOES say accessories and I didn't want to start a new thread.

    What is everyone's opinion on record clamps/weights? @Marvey recommended one for the acryl-it Project platter, which I have, and so my interest was sparked.

    Do they help? Audiophile phoolery? Any particular recommendations? I'm kind of brand loyal, but Project stuff is sadly overpriced. Their offerings are both in the $80-$100 range.

    Curious to hear any thoughts.
     
  4. JoshMorr

    JoshMorr Friend

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    I used the Michell Engineering clamp on my Debut Carbon with acrylic platter and it worked very well. http://www.michell-engineering.co.uk/accessories/record-clamp/

    I would recommend a clamp over just a straight up weight. It comes with a felt ring that spaces the record center up off the platter, and the clamp flattens the outer edges, making for move even sound.
     
  5. PoochZag

    PoochZag The Shadow knows - Friend

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    I have the Rega specific version of the same Michell clamp, it's just the clamp no associated felt. It definitely helps tighten up the bass (my table/cart is quite warm and flabby) but I tend to notice the improvement more with headphones than speakers (LSR305 and Blumenstein Orca), likely because my headphones go lower to begin with and I'm listening more intently. The amount of improvement seems to be record dependent as well, presumably due to how thick and flat the record already is.

    I think I paid around $60 and would do so again knowing what I know
     
  6. JayC

    JayC Resident Crash Test Dummy

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    I would imagine that a clamp would be better for warpy records. My Pro-ject Puck it does reduce some of it, but definitely not all. It does do a nice job with the sound though, especially the bass and soundstage.

    For reference, I didnt have an option to order a clamp and a weight and then return one, so I had to pick. I went with the puck because it seemed easier to use and I heard lots of users saying that the Mitchell clamp was too difficult to use with a 180g record on a Debut Carbon acrylic. Looks like they were wrong, seeing that you were able to use it on yours, @JoshMorr..
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2017
  7. JoshMorr

    JoshMorr Friend

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    Yea, was easy to use. I got it used from jk47, looked stock to me. Puck is certainly easier to use, saves a few second between swapping records, but I had no issues getting a good clamp onto the spindle.
     
  8. Skyline

    Skyline Double-blindly done with this hobby

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  9. JoshMorr

    JoshMorr Friend

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    I would buy a $3 hockey puck and drill a hole in it over buying that. Buy a few records with the money saved to help you get over the non matching pro-ject logo
     
  10. JayC

    JayC Resident Crash Test Dummy

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    What Pro-ject logo? :p

    [​IMG]
     
  11. JK47

    JK47 Guest

    All right folks, beer has been consumed, aaaand...I finally got my vinyl rig on the go in my new shack, but first I had to install Eden Sound brass spikes on my butcher block rack. New spot has carpet, so no more hockey pucks for feet.
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    IMG_0283.JPG

    I leveled each block again, and low and behold when I leveled my turntable, zero adjustments were needed. I was shocked, and vinyl goodness once again spins into my life. I didn't realize how much I missed it until I fired up the first LP... "Thriller" hahaaaaa
    IMG_0284.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 24, 2017
  12. Puma Cat

    Puma Cat Friend

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    I have a VPI record cleaner and a Spin-Clean, but work great. I think the much less expensive Spin-Clean actually works better, but I use both in combination. Having a perfectly clean record, even on older, used LPs can result in dead-quiet, sparkling clean LPs with no ticks or pops (assuming no scratches).
     
  13. Puma Cat

    Puma Cat Friend

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    Thought you guys would like to see the Uni-Protractor from Germany I use setting up cartrides. At $650, was expensive, but by far the best protractor I have ever used (including the Feickert) [NOTE: original post edited based on some good information thanks to Powermatic]

    It comes with different, mirrored geometry protractors for differrent tyes of arm/cartridge set-up. For SME, I use Stevenson geometry.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    View through the loupe; the SME does not do overhang alignment by using the traditional slots in the headshell, there is no cartridge "twisting" or sliding required to get overhang or tangency right. Just get the stylus lined up perfectly by using the forward/back rack & pinion adjustment mechanism of the arm into the protractor hole and the laser etch alignment marks. This allows much more precise adjustment than playing with sliding and twisting the cartridge in the headshell. The SME V has has a flat, one piece arm/headsheall that is non-twistable so this means you can't adjust azimuth by hand, but my understanding is that the SME V tolerance of 5 microns for this "dimension"(geometry, direction?). This does not account for any inaccuries in the cartridge cantilever/motor assembly/cartridge body, of course. As Powermatic points out, if you wanted to adjust this azimuth perfectly, you'd have to shim the cartridge mounting under the headshell and use a metrology like the system Marvey has described.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2017
  14. Puma Cat

    Puma Cat Friend

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    Here I am using it adjust my Rega P5. Great table, fantastic sound for the money. Need to get this sold as I just don't use it much anymore; it became part of a bedroom system, but I now usually listen to music with headphones, a Schiit Valhalla 2 and a Schiit Modi 2 Uber DAC.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. powermatic

    powermatic Friend

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    "View through the loupe; the SME does not do azimuth alignment by using the traditional slots in the headshell, there is no cartridge "twisting" required to get azimuth right. Just get the stylus lined up perfectly by using the forward/back rack & pinion adjustment mechanism of the arm into the protractor hole and the laser etch alignment marks. This allows much more precise adjustment than trying to get the "twist" right in the headshell. The SME V has an geometry tolerance of 5 microns, so once you do this, you're "good to go" with respect to azimuth."

    You're confusing 'azimuth' with 'overhang', or more accurately, two-point tangency through the arc of the stylus across the record.

    'Azimuth' is the vertical relationship of the stylus to the groove walls. There is no adjustment for azimuth on the fixed headshell '5-you would need to use shims under the headshell screws (as one solution) if the stylus is not perpendicular to the groove.

    Otherwise a nice write-up (and pics) of an alignment tool I've never seen. Thanks!
     
  16. Puma Cat

    Puma Cat Friend

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    Ahh, you are correct, sir. Thanks for the clarification. And now that I think about it, the 5 uM tolerance I referenced for the SME V was for azimuth, this of course does not account for any variability in the cantilever/motor assembly of the cartridge, of course, which is why Marvey's approach is the best way to obtain optimal azimuth setting. And unlike a uni-pivot, you're correct that I would to adjust this with shims if it was off. I agree with Marvey that azimuth is a more critical parameter than VTA.

    I went back and edited my original post to be more accurate and reflect your information. Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2017
  17. powermatic

    powermatic Friend

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    No sweat, just wanted to clarify for the sake of any youngsters reading this. Their minds are as clay, and must be carefully formed!
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2017
  18. Puma Cat

    Puma Cat Friend

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    Indeed. It's been so long since I've gotten my setup dialed in, I haven't had to think much about these "critical adjustment parameters" recently as we say in the Design for Six Sigma world...once you get "dialed in" you're good to go.
     
  19. powermatic

    powermatic Friend

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    If you're looking for a high-mass tt stand for little money, and can DIY, you could put together something like this. Dimensions are 30"L x 16"H x 18"D, large enough for, as you can see, a Prime deck, defer from those dimensions as needed. Built with one sheet of 3/4" cabinet grade birch A/B ply. Legs and top are 2 1/4" thick, or 2 pieces 3/4" ply with a 3/4" space in between. The shelf is 1 1/2" thick mortise/tenoned into legs. The hollow spaces are loaded up with zip-locks filled with sand. All joints are mitered to hide raw plywood edges, except the bottom of the legs. No fasteners needed, just glued and clamped. I used Parts Express adjustable spikes ( https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-cabinet-1-2-super-toe-spike-set-4-pcs--240-730). Finish is black, water-based wood dye, and then 4 coats of satin poly, lightly sanded between coats, then waxed with 0000 steel wool after curing. Weighs almost 70 lbs., and it's spiked to a slab floor. Buy a good quality ply: the finish veneer is incredibly thin even on decent material, and is horribly susceptible to sand-through on the pre-finish sanding, which will screw up any finish other than paint. Baltic Birch is best in this regard (each ply, including the finish plys, are the same thickness), but definitely do not buy the cheap charley Chinese plywood at Home Depot unless you're planning on painting, the finish ply is like 1 micron thick. As said, a good quality cabinet grade ply is workable if you're careful. Put a good plywood blade in your table saw for ripping/crosscutting all of the miters.Total cost well under a hunskie, and weighs about 70 lbs. ;) 20171221_133135.jpg
     
  20. recstar24

    recstar24 Friend

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    [​IMG]
    IKEA "Besta" series, perfect height for vinyl, enough depth for a "now playing" vinyl to prop up, plenty of space for the TT and the feet can be raised/lowered for proper leveling.
     

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