The All Purpose Advice Thread

I recall @Bill-P mentioning a workaround for this. Maybe send him a PM or look through his posts for the solution?

 

Yes it does. Also the buzz decreases in level a bit if you touch the amp case. It completely disappears if you unplug the XLR cables. If you leave either one plugged in, but take out the other, you get buzz in the plugged in channel.

 

Did you try @Bill-P 's solution that @Garns quoted on the GO2A thread?

 

Just gave it another shot. It seems to be working this time...but I'm not sure which output gets priority on the GO2A if both are plugged in. I'm also not sure which input my amp gives priority to if both are plugged in. On the positive side, I haven't blown anything up yet, which is good. If I unplug the balanced output at the GO2A end, music continues to play through the SE output, if I unplug the SE output, it continues to play through the balanced input, but of course this brings the buzz back.

 

I seem to have found a solution that works for my set up. Plug the 3.5mm to RCA into my computers headphone out, which is muted when using the GO2A, this accomplishes the same thing as plugging it into the GO2A SE output..I think. The Buzz is gone at least. Thanks so much for putting up with me guys!

 

Is there a thread of people's set ups here? Im kinda curious how people have everything pieced together. Ergonomics is a big thing for me. Sitting at my desk isn't the most comfortable place to listen, my couch is, but my equipment hooks up to my computer. Maybe I'll make an audio tray on wheels that I can quickly connect my phone or laptop to via USB? Either that or I need some extra long cables and a amp with a remote control.

 

Did find one, although it didn't get many replies: http://superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/post-your-headphone-setup.3515/

 

Hi all,

Okay, I tried scanning through the site and haven't come across anything directly addressing my question. I'm a bit clumsy at the best of times, though, so... yeah, feel free to crap over the question if I just missed it, haha.

So I've been using one of those original Micro iDSDs (which I prefer to the new BL version, sonic improvements notwithstanding) since my budget at the time meant I needed to go cheap and it was a two-in-one touted as being able to drive essentially any headphone or IEM on the planet. Yep, got sucked in by the hype.

I've had the opportunity to hear some very nice things since, though, and have been itching to upgrade. I've been hearing very good things about the Schiit Jotunheim, so that's top of my list at the moment. Should I choose to get one, I may get it with the DAC module built in and just sell the iFi for whatever I can get for it. Broadly speaking, what sort of improvements (or side-grades, if they are that) should I expect? Would I be better off keeping the iDSD on as a DAC and getting a vanilla, amp-only Jot?

Also considering getting a Fostex HP-V1 amp since transportability is somewhat valuable to me. Tube amp plus "warm" BB chip in the iDSD seems like it'd be around right for my Beyer DT880 Premium (250 Ohm), but I'm thinking I'd need something a bit livelier for my Fostexes then (TH-X00 EB). Don't have Grado RS-1s anymore, so I'm down to two mid-fi cans, one reasonably efficient and another more sensitive than it looks; I'll be wanting something that can drive both well. Ideally, I'll be able to operate it without needing a wall outlet, but I can live with being tied down.


Sorry for the wall of text, and thanks in advance!

Kevin

 

I have experience with both the original iDSD and the Jotunheim. I wouldn't bother with the Jot; it's a much cleaner and less colored amp/DAC than the iDSD but will be dry and quite likely fatiguing with the Beyers and TH-X00. I'd sell the iDSD and grab a used GOV2/GO2A etc. for better sound while retaining portability. I think anything more would be overkill for your current headphones.

The DAC in the iDSD isn't just tonally warm, it's totally off-timbre and fucked in the treble. The Geek Outs are much less offensive as portable units.

 

*sigh* Yeah, I was just trying to be kinder about the iDSD's DAC to protect my own frail ego

Jokes aside, heck, I could get the LH Labs new at the prices they're going for on Amazon right now! It'd be nice, I think, to get a higher-tier system in the event I decide to upgrade cans, but if I'm being honest with myself that isn't happening any time soon. The GO2A Infinity looks very tempting! Gonna have to use the clunky adapter for the X-00s though, sigh.

... or re-cable them for portable.


Either way, thank you! Much appreciated.

 

Chord mojo, Modi Multibit, DC-1, Sony uda-1, iFi idac2. which is the best DAC available under 500$ for speaker and headphone as DAC only?

 

That's not a good way to pick a DAC. You might as well google "best DAC under $500" and pick one.

Tell us a little more, do you currently own a DAC? What do you like/dislike about it? What speakers/headphones do you own? What kind of music do you like? What's your tonal preference, warm/bright?

 

I have a vast array of systems in terms of speakers and headphone so may need various sound signature DAC

after reading the new comments in Torq thread about chord mojo, I decided against it since he doesnt seem that enthousiasm about mojo performance even compared to Modi Multibit.

so Ive ordered Schiit modi multibit since it seems to be a no brainer

would like another flavor in the same under 500$ price range.

 

I have not heard these myself but perhaps the Emotiva Stealth DC-1 or Audiolab M-DAC are worth considering. I have seen the M-DAC likened to the DC-1 and LH Labs desktops DACs on here. M-DAC is generally very well regarded in Europe.

Those are the sorts of DACs I was considering before the Modi Multibit was announced. I found the best results using the Optical input, pretty veiled otherwise.

 

Mdac+ is around 1k, bit out of my price range. The DC-1 have been compare to Mdac or Mdac+?

I finally just bought my first Schiit product in the momby and will likely buy the upcoming Bifrost Multibit upgrade dac.

 

Not the + version, the original M-DAC designed by John Westlake. It should be around half the price of the +, and easy to find on eBay for even less. At least it is on this side of the pond. I've got my eye open for a new Bifrost Multibit too, Modi Multibit lacks resolution and/or clarity. Fantastic in every other way.

The comment re. M-DAC vs DC-1 may have been offsite.

These may be pertinent:
http://www.avforums.co.za/index.php?topic=31959.0
Arnotts' post: http://superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/marveys-dac-chart-of-awesomeness.63/page-11

 

Two queries:

For speakers, should I keep Kef LS50s and consider one or two Rel T5 subs or sell the LS50s and get something floorstanding in the 3k range?

For headphones, I have a used Eikon coming in next week. Mjolnir 2, Jotunheim, Jotunheim+Freya preamp, or a used EC ZDS? Obviously the obviously obvious choice is ZDS, but price to performance and all that...

Source for both is Auralic Aries LE fed Yggdrasil. Waiting on Vidar for speakers, so I have some time to mull that one over. Already have the Freya in house feeding mackie monitors (way, way too much bass out of them, so why am I even considering supplementing the LS50s w/ subs?)

 

For far more bang for your buck get a subwoofer from one of these places. They're the Schiit/Emotiva of subwoofers:
https://www.svsound.com/pages/subwoofers
http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers.htm

 

Well, I've read that the Rels have a synergy with the Kefs...

 

I can't comment on synergy, to be honest I've not considered the concept of synergy where it comes to subwoofers. Though generally people tend to recommend sealed subs for music to get tighter bass, and ported for AV for more rumble.

The RELs appear to use far less power, and passive radiators to try and make up for it. Which sound like cost cutting and relying on brand recognition to me. As far as I have read their performance doesn't match their price. I have a BK Electronics XLS200 sealed sub. Pretty damn good, hoping to pair it with the LS50s one day.