Super Best Audio Friends

The evolution of the original irreverent and irrelevant and non-authoritative site for headphone measurements, i.e. frequency response graphs, CSD waterfall plots, subjective gear reviews. Too objective for subjectivists; too subjective for objectivists

Incidentally, this review will lean towards a stream of consciousness style. Currently, I'm in the process of recovering from COVID. Fortunately, I didn't face any respiratory complications; instead, I've been grappling with intense fatigue, necessitating lengthy naps lasting several hours each day. Feel free to pose any questions to maintain our usual conversational flow.

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Two summers back, at the Texas Audio Show, I found myself in the "high-end" room where an intriguing conversation caught my attention. A fellow attendee, deeply engrossed listening to music from the Schiit Folkvangr and Grado GS3000X system, exclaimed, "These headphones are truly exceptional, remarkably neutral." Now, I understand that for those familiar with Grado's signature sound, such a statement might raise eyebrows. However, the attendee seemed genuinely impressed, speaking with unwavering conviction.

Being a devoted fan of Grado myself and entrusted with the Grado guide here, I couldn't help but share the initial skepticism many of you may feel. We all know that Grado headphones come with their own distinct characteristics, but the terms "neutral" and "Grado" (unless referring to the latest X series with the F-cush) aren't typically associated.
Let's compare to HD650 and JAR600 below. Measurements are mostly consistent with my concise subjective impressions here: https://www.superbestaudiofriends.o...sial-hd-660s2-thread.13205/page-4#post-425945. A summary:
  • HD600S2 is more full bodied (or has less bass hump depending how we want to look at it)
  • HD600S2 is recessed in upper mids
  • The funky thing that I mentioned (subjective): HD600S2 has more edge or is more prickly than either JAR600/HD650. The measurements show HD660S2 to have less treble overall from 7-10kHz, but why is this? Could be be the 5.5kHz peak? Let's look at CSD and Burst Attack Envelope later...
  • Measurements alone would suggest that the JAR600 would be more difficult in the highs than the HD660S because the JAR600 has a bump around 8kHz, but I actually found the JAR600 to be more even sounding, less prickly, less edgy, than the HD600S2.
Sennheiser HD660S2 -vs- HD650 (WHT)
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A challenge was presented to me requesting I develop an inexpensive electronics learning lab that would

a) engage the student
b) present concepts clearly and concisely
c) be simple to learn and use
d) be hands-on
e) be inexpensive

The initial target audience are my grandchildren. However others may find this interesting and possibly useful.

Primary considerations for measurement devices were simple operation, highly visible large display, inexpensive. Accuracy and features were not a priority.

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Buy this now.

Just a mere two days ago, the ETA Ada headphone made an unexpected appearance at my doorstep. Not a whisper from Tommy or Evan preceded its arrival***; it simply materialized out of thin air. Frankly, I had no inkling of its contents; it could have easily been another delivery of delectable Korean snacks for all I knew.

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Every now and then, a product emerges to fill a void unbeknownst to many. The ETA Ada embodies precisely that notion. These days, my enthusiasm for headphones is rather subdued. Marketing teams often hype up new technology, touting it as a "real" game-changer – yet to me, it often boils down to, "Does it produce sound? Oh, just a different sound." Different, not necessarily better. Then there's the monthly parade of super-expensive orthodynamic headphones, necessitating special components to rectify one or two vexing issues. By the time the setup is complete, we've likely spent enough to put down a sizeable down payment on a scarcely available MSRP C8 Corvette.
*I've been way behind on these. Apologies to Sajeev and SBAF.

Nectar Ambrosia Impressions
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After the bombastic ortho called the Bee, someone pointed out to me that Nectar makes a dynamic driver headphone called the Ambrosia. I did wonder what I was about to hear; was this going to be along the same lines as the Bee (and maybe kind of like ZMF Atrium), or was I going to get something entirely different? Surprisingly, the answer is the latter; the Ambrosia can be summed up as a polite and gentle listen and compelling at its price point ($400 + shipping).

The Ambrosia's FR seems to be somewhere along the lines of the ZMF sound; lush in the bass and mids, with a noticeable dip in the upper mids and a comeback in the mid treble. This contributes to the Ambrosia sounding a bit polite, although it is definitely not the only reason.

The transients are where I believe the Ambrosia is a bit polite. While not necessarily slow, they are a touch rounded in character (my preference) and it doesn't have the slam of the Atrium.
The Verum 2 sounds like a more mature version of the Verum 1. Things are tighter (as opposed to loose) with snappier transients and focused delivery. The possible downside is that the presentation is a bit drier. The Verum 2 also scales much better with better gear. (It was a let down coming from the MILF/MJ3 to the MMB1/Piety)...

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I was interested in hearing the Bakoon as the successor, Enleum AMP 23-R, has received positive reviews and I am curious about it's interesting design and possibilities as an AIO amp.

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I initially tried the Bakoon with my Freya+ in front as I do with all the other amps, but it sounded really off. In this configuration the Bakoon is connected to the Yggydrasil via SE so they may limit performance.

Quirks
The labels for the inputs and outputs are on the bottom of the chassis so if you can't remember which speaker out is + or - you have to flip it over. And they are not color coded like the rca inputs. To turn on the unit you can use the remote button or spin the volume knob quickly clockwise. The volume control knob is free to spin like a modern car stereo knob and does not have a set min/max. To get to a usable volume, I have to spin the knob 3 or so revolutions or click the remote 20 times. Not awful, but it resets when you change inputs or turn the unit off so you have to do it all again. What was a quirk quickly turned into an annoyance by the end of my time with it.
Hi everybody! We are at it again in the Bay (https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/bay-area-meet-january-29-2023.12979/). If you are interested in bringing your gear and getting a table spot, please join the discord (link below) and fill out the sign up sheet. I will follow up with you in the coming weeks to give you details on the event, etc. That being said, if you have headphones or IEMs (or even DAPs) that are portable, feel free to bring those with you and carry those around to test out all the cool stuff that will be there. So here are the details:

Important notes:
  1. If you are selected to bring your own setup, please arrive 1 hour before the event to set up. There will also be 1 hours after the event is over to break down and pack up.
  2. Gear list to come.
We are sponsored by Schiit Audio!!! Please thank them for helping us put together this meet and be able to enjoy this bigger venue and the space needed to bring more of us together! Also for sending us awesome gear.

Note: Please be conscious of your manners and hygiene. If there’s a line growing behind you or for the table, limit your listening time and come back when the table isn’t as packed. Let’s let everyone listen. Also keep in mind you will be demoing other people’s gear. Please be clean, wash up, don’t put products in your hair, clean your ears, etc. Be respectful. There’s a lot of cool gear here.

Location and Date/Time:
Saturday January 27, 2024
10:00 AM – 3:00 PM PST
Guildhouse
420 S 1st St
San Jose, CA 95113
Let's be honest, the vast majority of SBAF members here like to see audio as a fundamental science rather than a product of engineering. That means for some reason audiophiles have convinced themselves that hearing "how something sounds" in an uncontrolled environment even remotely qualifies as an observation (it does not and never will)

I believe this approach to audio is severely damaging to the hobby, but it has sadly been the standard for many decades. Trust your ego, not your ears, because if you actually trusted your ears, you'd conduct a proper blind test.

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However, I did stumble upon this. (Someone reported that this worked, so I decided to try it). Holy moly, this worked darn good. Piety tiny edition is actually subjectively more ballsy (but murkier) in the lows and wetter in the mids than Pietus. The CA-1a are on the cool and dry side, so Piety is great match. (I'm also using Yggdrasil LiM)

Schiit Yggdrasil LiM -> Nitsch Sound Piety -> TI-1b -> CA-1a
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The downside is that we need to crank up the volume. I had no issue getting to moderately high volumes without maxing out the volume with rock tracks that are compressed. With classical tracks with high dynamic range, I had to max out the volume. All this in high gain.

I am messing with you guys? Absolutely not. Sure, some of this is a little bit of recoil from my recent experience with expensive amps that did not meet high expectations**. However, I am dead serious.

THIS. SOUNDS. DARN. GOOD.
This is an honest review* of the Ferrum ORR headamp and HYPNOS power supply. Due to the very recent release of a number of headamps which have really pushed what solid-state headamps can do (tube expressiveness), the Ferrum OOR is going to have some stiff competition. I'm going to be direct and succinct without much extraneous bullshit and technobabble (some it probably wrong or misleading) that other Internet reviewers spew.

The HYPSOS is a power supply does guud things. I have not heard the OOR without it and I won't because I don't have the time. Ferrum Audio should just sell both together instead of offer an "optional" power supply that makes the base headamp guuder. For Jeebs sake, f'ing sell the best product that you can instead of something gimped that requires an extra attachment that makes it how it was supposed to be in the first place. If it sounds like this kind of audiophile bullshittery bugs the F outta me, it's because it does. (I mean GM doesn't sell a Vette with a V4 at $50k but ask an extra $30k for the V8.)

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After years of moving magnet and moving iron cartridges, I managed to buy a SoundSmith Zephyr MIMC Star which is a low output (0.4 mV), moving iron cartridge. So now I need phono pre with moving coil gain to play the Zephyr.

You are probably thinking, why not just get a step up transformer (SUT) and use it with your existing MM phono? It turns out that the Zephyr has inductance of 2.75 mH per channel. While that is much lower than the 400 mH or so with a typical MM cartridge, it is near the top of the range for an MC cartridge. An MC cartridge can have inductance as low as 5 uH. With a low inductance MC cartridge and an SUT, the frequency response can be flat and extended, but at 2.75 mH, the SUT and the cartridge may interact to generate a significant response peak in the treble region. That can also affect phase over the top half of the audio range. In other words, an SUT with a high inductance cartridge is risky, so I decided to find a phono pre-amp with an active first stage.

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