Thingverse HD600/HD650 mod discussion

Prototyping time. Yes, my STL files will be free to modify on Thingiverse as admittedly I'm a total CAD noob.

 

So, I've been avoiding reading impressions of the JAR series of headphones as to not color my impressions of my own mod. Right now I'm hearing extended sub bass with some actual impact, faster transients, i.e. more like my planars and a closer up stage, but it's also a more fatiguing sound unlike the custom cans only mod. It's a fun and different listen, but I'm not a fan of the fatigue. I haven't whipped out the second skin stuff I have lying around yet, and I particularly haven't damped the metal ring or the bottom Y yet so hopefully that's why I hear the fatigue. Currently the the only damping material I'm using is seen below:



I want the cross bar to friction fit around the metal ring with second skin in between in my latest version along with bottom of the Y having the two layers of second skin in between the bottom Y part of headphone. I believe @purr1n mentioning these are the most important damping spots per his KISS mod guide. I'm thinking of making a variant with even thicker walls for added weight and second skin covering the inner ring which may be a first as I have never seen damping applied orthogonal to the traditional placement. I'm hoping that will help kill any back waves that could cause cancellation/elevation of frequencies.

TLDR I'm a total noob so suggestions very much so appreciated.

 

I picked up a used 6xx Kiss and the implementation looks more like the one in the post above. I typically use the more bassy 58x so the bass sounds similar between the two headphones both being very good. This 6xx Kiss, however, is much more dynamic than I remember my last 6xx sounding as well as being slightly more refined and smoother sounding than the 58x.

 

Went through a bunch of different designs over the last few days, and I just about have a design that I think could be viable, but I have no measuring device. If anyone is interested in this and can provide measurements I'd be ecstatic to send you a beta stl file to print. Sound is very obviously different and I have not implemented any damping material in this new design yet.

Here's what I think could be a success:




Caveat, this will add about 100 grams roughly to the headphones, but I guarantee sub bass.

Here's some of the fails for fun:

 

Other than you just trying to approximate a JAR:

What are the sonic differences, changes over the course of these prints? What do you observe between each iteration? Is there a path you can see?

 

...and the JAR is in the same vein as the OG KISS mod

 

Yes! Flat surface, cheap-FDM-printer-friendly.

I'm curious about the purpose of the whole "hat", does it holds the metal ring more firmly in place? And it looks like you filled up the space between the "hat" and the original frame while I think it could be nice to test some damping material around the inner wall (worked great on a Hifiman HE6SE), did you do that just to minimize the cavity or are there other reasons?

 

If we assume you were right: Quite above it in performance and sophistication with a clear plan/idea and also, most important: an understanding what KISS mod does and why.

However you are downplaying JAR just to antagonize.

The right analogy here would be copying the KISS mod without understanding it a single bit. I strongly doubt he has a clue of what he's doing here. Might as well print dildos.

 

Thank you. Fundamentally the current design requires the custom cans metal ring though. We might need a more fitting name than the Thingverse mod lol.

Sub bass is what I want most out of these cans. I'd like sub bass with perhaps less resonance would be ideal.

 

I want to dampen any vibration in the metal ring as well. I believe the custom cans mod just transfer some of the drivers resonance to it and of course mass would would decrease resonance as well.

 

I've been pretty clear that I'm a total n00b. Just some guy with tinkercad that hasn't used cad software in over 20 years and hasn't done any engineering or differential equations in the same amount of time. I am one of the most stubborn and obsessed mother porkers you will ever meet though.

 

Mod is progressing nicely. Hopefully we can provide a finalized stl file, instructions and measurements after a week or so of playing around.

 

Just a straight up ripoff of Jupiter's designs. I guess trying to achieve what's already been done because he's too cheap to pay for the real deal?

"Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness."
-Oscar Wilde

 

Maybe not everyone can afford to buy expensive custom gear or wait years for it

 

I have not had the pleasure to own or even listen to any of Jupiter's designs, but mine is free or darn close to it. I DIY in this hobby for the love it, and to see if I can. Tuning will undoubtedly differ as the most things are very different. For example, I am jealous that that Nitsch can print with Nylon as the density of PLA can't match it, hence my larger design.

 

Nearing the final mods here. I'm using cheap and easily available Dollarama velcro straps for the inner oval to try to cancel any reflections.

 

Nylon is surprisingly easy to print. Lots of low-warp, low-temperature options, and the bed adherence is outstanding with Magigoo Pro PA. But you must MUST MUST keep the filament VERY dry.

 

Yah, I only have a humble ender 3 v2 neo with a handful of mods, so PLA is probably all I’ll optimize this design for, but if someone wants to remix it for Nylon, that’s totally cool.

 

That'll do nylon, no worries.

I've done CF-nylon on my Ender 3 Pro; the only mod truly required was an all-metal hotend for the 280°C nozzle temp. But regular nylon is completely within the capabilities of the 260°C max of the v2 Neo.