Donald North Audio — Owners Thread

Maybe $25,000 ? jk

Primarily the transformers. Stellaris has custom nickel windings (I believe), while SSpecial has silver secondary windings on the Output transformer. SSilver is all silver windings, both Input and Output transformers, plus silver wiring & silver dueland foil caps. And Specials have speaker outputs of course.

Now, I have never heard or even seen the SSilver, but it is whispered that at least one now exists in the wild... Saving my pennies.

 

I believe the regular Stellaris uses AN’s UHiB core OPT with copper for both primary and secondary windings. As for the Special and the Silver, the following info is available on the Stellaris product page:

Features of the Stellaris Special include:
• Upgraded Audio Note output transformers with 50% nickel cores, copper primary and silver secondary windings
• Audio Note silver tantalum plate-loading resistors
• Custom 41-step TKD stepped attenuator

Features of the Silver Stellaris include:
• Audio Note silver-wound input transformers
• Audio Note output transformers with 50% nickel cores and all-silver primary & secondary windings
• Audio Note silver tantalum resistors for input-transformer loading and plate-loading
• Silver internal wiring
• Duelund CAST silver foil capacitors
• Custom 41-step TKD stepped attenuator

 

I believe this is the information you are looking for, as in specifics:

Features of the Stellaris Special include:

• Upgraded Audio Note output transformers with 50% nickel cores, copper primary and silver secondary windings

• Audio Note silver tantalum plate-loading resistors

• Custom 41-step TKD stepped attenuator



Features of the Silver Stellaris include:

• Audio Note silver-wound input transformers

• Audio Note output transformers with 50% nickel cores and all-silver primary & secondary windings

• Audio Note silver tantalum resistors for input-transformer loading and plate-loading

• Silver internal wiring

• Duelund CAST silver foil capacitors

• Custom 41-step TKD stepped attenuator


The number of Silver Stellaris is likely 1-3 out in the wild

 

My currently favorite rectifier (Sophia Aqua 274B) has developed some noise.

I went on a search to buy a new one and noticed they just released a version 2, called Aqua II 274B. Said screw it and just placed an order for the new version. I'll try and post my impressions once it gets here. I can't find any real impressions as it is fairly new (released in early July). It's about $50 more than version 1, at $250 with a 30 day warranty, or $300 for an extended warranty.

I enjoy the original Aqua as it is a bit on the warmer side and is very musical. It pairs well with the 6n1P EV input tube which can be a bit on the analytical side.

 

I can’t type right now I'm sorry

274B tube in place of the 5U4G tube Stratus / Stellaris?

 

Only one 274b I'm aware of that is compatible. That's the Sophia Aqua 274b. All others are not compatible.

 

@RestoredSparda read notes in this thread, tube roll your Stratus, achieve enlightenment, and then thank the Gods you called off the sale.

 

I’m glad @RestoredSparda stepped off the ledge. Really ought to mull things over a lot before you sell it. I’m glad I don’t have to justify another piece of equipment if I bought it.

 

@RestoredSparda and all EC & DNA owners

I get the emotional connection Mjolnir 3 produces, in a similar manner to the EC and DNA amps and the feeling that it could satisfy as a replacement. However serious deliberation over a long period of time would be prudent before parting with any stellar performers such as EC and DNA amps.

 

It's all good gentlemen. Thanks for talking sense into me. I went full mesh on my Atrium and am back in deep love with Stratus. Never blame the blue, always look elsewhere in the chain.

That being said I did an audio test yesterday to see where my hearing is at. My left ear can hear 18k and my right 16k. Explains why I'm a bit treble sensitive. Maybe I should just staple ZMF solid mesh over my ears.

 

I can’t type right now i’m sorry

A NOS 5U4G tube burned out on my Stellaris. The tubes now do not glow after replacing the burned out tube. There is a fuse in the back near the power plugin but I can’t get the fuse out. How do you remove the fuse

This text is from Whitney’s friend. Whitney is freaked out

Thank you

 

Ugh! Stay calm...You should be able to pry open the fuse enclosure with a small flat head screw driver. It's just a plastic tab that will pop out, right next to the power socket. I circled it in red. I believe it's a 2amp slow blow fuse.

And don't worry, if it is something more than Donald is amazing and will get you sorted out. His email is on his website. He can also help troubleshoot if you have a multimeter.

 

@rythmdevils Had the same thing happen to me when I bought a discounted 5u4G from Viva tubes some years ago. Contacted Donald North and he agreed that I could change the fuse with a Witonics 2A 250V slow-blow glass fuse 5x20mm. Thankfully everything was good after replacing it.

 

Going to echo what others are saying here - if in doubt, contact Donald. He will take care of you.

 

@rhythmdevils I don't have a spare fuse but I have a stock rectifier that I can drop off at your place to keep your amp going until you get a rectifier you prefer.

 

My friend tried to pry open the little door, prying on the stub on the left side. He couldn’t get it open and eventually the stub broke off. He tried prying in other locations on the little door with multiple small screwdrivers, but he couldn’t get the door open. We are out of ideas. But I’d like to avoid mailing it if at all possible.

 

Might need something like this to get behind the tab where he originally tried to pry, $2 at Harbor Freight


Should slide out like this at 0:45

 

For that power entry module with the illuminated green power switch, you need to squeeze together the 2 plastic tabs of the fuse holder and pry it outwards. See photo below.

 

Jesus my bad @rhythmdevils. I should have mentioned the little tabs on top and bottom as well. Mine just popped out nicely with the side and looks identical so had no clue. Thanks for helping him out @Donald North.

It looks like he tried the top which is now pulled out but not the bottom tab. If you get a poker and GENTELY do the bottom it should come out like @Donald North said.

 

FWIW I broke mine trying to get it out, but it really is just squeeze the tabs at the top and bottom, and pull it out.
Donald sent me a mouser link, though I actually had a spare lying around, so it’s not a big deal if you break it.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...DjuEKn1y6BA==&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD