Dummies Guide to Pi2AES! Throw away your PC or laptop.

Correct.

 

what is the minimum amp requirements for this unit? found a lpsu that's 24v but ~.6 amps.

Only reason I ask is that can arrive within a week rather than a month

Also isn't this power supply linked better than the one you suggested? looks like quality caps, more uf, and multiple smaller caps is better, right? Not sure if this is very necessary for a unit like the pi2aes. YOLO
50W HIFI Ultra-low Noise Audio Linear Power Supply DC5V 7V 9V 12V 15V 18V 24V | eBay
Actually correction, this has two power outputs, so it's 6600 vs 6800, but those look like better caps. Not sure if it doubles down if you use only one power output. No clue how PSU's work

 

The pi itself wants 15W. So if you go with that psu you’ll need to power the pi separately. Just remove the jumper marked “PI 5V” to allow this.

 

This sounds like a unit on fire type situation for me XD

But if I go with the once suggested, I dont need to power the pi? Post 1914

You have to connect two power supplies? The one for the pi doesn't matter quality wise, a switching power supply is okay?

I understand you can power both, but not sure what to do with this jumper removal. That jumper is located on the pi board or the aes?

Sorry, I have no set up the unit yet, clearly no point when I cant even use it yet.

 

some of this can be answered in our hardware reference manual that’s on our website. It will give you a better idea of how things are powered.

 

I'm getting a roll on with ignorant questions, going to set up the unit now. Would it be over the top to add thermal paste and a heatsink on my pi

Forgive me.

Also dont understand on the very first step of installing the terminals for the pi board to sit, two of the screws are on tight and two of them are loose. Not even sure how that's possible

 

The vendor we bought the 5mm m-f standoffs had inconsistent depth. So some were shorter than the spec. We can send proper ones. Send an email to [email protected]

 

I had some small, adhesive backed heat sinks from a prior project that I installed on my Pi. Works great.

Found these too: Amazon.com: 30 PCS Raspberry Pi 4 Heatsink Kit with Thermal Conductive Adhesive Tape, Aluminum Heat Sink Cooler and Copper Heatsink for Raspberry Pi B B+ 2/3/4 : Electronics

 

The Pi I got came with those tiny heat sinks too, some do have the tape heat sink, but one of them doesn't. I got really good thermal paste.

Does the processor even get hot though? is it worth it to do that? I generally have fairly long listening sessions, 5-8 hours. Not sure if the unit will get hot on prolonged periods of listening

@Michael Kelly i'll just get washers. Was going to shave the screws down, but i'll just put washers, it's about half a mm gap on those loose screws, should fix the problem. If not i'll reach out, thanks.

 

If You use it only for listening to music, it wont get hot. You don't need those.

 

Hello there! Hope everyone has been having a Happy Holiday. I have been loving my Pi2AES since I bought it earlier in the year. However, today after a power flash, the Pi2AES seems to be stuck on the green Power LED and I can no longer get it to lock on to either 44.1 or 48k audio streams. I have rebooted and even reseated the device, nothing seems to fix it.
I was unsure if I could try to reset it or anything else to get it working again? I am hoping it is not damaged as it is now my favorite tech in my system! Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much!
Cheers!

 

First make sure the dac is functional independent from the pi2aes. Second try reflashing the micro sd card. Even if it reboots the configuration may have been mangled during the power event.

If all else fails contact pi2design to see what support options there are, they may have more technical steps to take to see what’s going on.

 

Hello everyone!.

I have this fantastic device for a couple of weeks, bought it with the Meanwell 24V / 1.67A power supply.

But like most of you I want to try a better/clean power. I own a:

• ifi Power X (5V / 3A, switching power supply with ifi Active Noise Cancellation II tech) and

• Studer900 LPS (5V / 2.5A, uses a toroidal transformer, panasonic condenser).

So I couldn't resist to give it a try to the 5V Mod:


I prefer a cleaner-inner mount:


I tried with the ifi Power X switching power supply and the Studer900 LPS, tested carefully with a USB Multimeter where I can monitoring its load and current delivery

VIDEO: Pi2AES feed by Studer900 LPS:
Where goes at 4.93V from 0.67A to 0.84A while streaming from Tidal via Ethernet, using a RPi 3B+

Using the current/load test function of the USB Multimeter: ifi Power X handles 3A at 4.9V and LPS can go 4.8 at 2A max.

So It works OK, using I2S HDMI output, streaming USB drive for local files.

Between the Meanwell and any of these 5V PSU's, the difference is big, very audible. I actually listen for hours with each, and made a recording with a binaural in-ear mics to compare it.

Between ifi Power X vs Studer900 LPS the difference is smaller, but it seems the LPS delivers a subtle better black background, improved holographic soundstage and imaging presentation; where bass is has more hump and treble is detail without being harsh.

So, I'm in a quandary... I know for sure this sound improvement with a LPS is worth it, but not feeling comfortable of losing power protection circuitry.

My question: if I go with a ifi Power Elite (24V / 2.5A) can I expected the same cleaner results?,
taking into account that power delivery goes through the RPi up to the Pi2AES?

Or if its better to use a LPS 24V on Pi2AES and ifi Power X for the RPi (jumper off) separately?

Thanks in advance for your feedback/input, man this HAT is the best!

 

OK. I'll try reflashing! Thanks!
EDIT: Tried reflashing MoOde. No new behavior. Power LED is on but neither clock signal ever lights up.
I have contacted Michael Kelly and Pi2Designs and am just waiting on hearing back. Obviously, I'm super bummed.
If anyone here has an extra for sale, I would gladly take it off their hands. Thanks again everyone. Happy Holidays!

 

I'm using a 24V Sbooster LPS as single power source for each two Pi2AES setups, DACs: OG Yggdrasil (via AES), Holo May KTE (via I2S), Holo Spring 2 KTE (via AES). There's an improvement over Meanwell, but not as marked as from my previous sources to Pi2AES.

 

Awesome earnmyturns, Thanks for your input!

I wonder if SBooster 24V / 1.1A output current will be enough for the Pi2AES, reading this thread, as far I know (this coming from M. Kelly) current should stay between 1 - 2A for proper and reliable performance.

BoTW products are unfortunately unavailable in my country, importing will make it pay 2.5x its price, that's a deal breaker for me. iFi products are more accessible.

 

I honestly do not remember the context for when I said that or rather wrote that. However 24V @1.1A is 26.4W. That is more than enough to power pi2aes and the raspberry pi together

 

Yes. 24V x 1.1A > 25W. Pi 4B needs < 6W, Pi2AES 1W maximum. Lots of headroom. One of my Pi2AES setups also has a Pi Touch 7" display, 200 mA @ 5V. Still lots of headroom.

 

Good to know, sorry I forgot the context but yeah is all right. However SBooster is unavailable.

I guess my only option is: ifi Power Elite 24/2.5A.

What about using separately (jumper off) Pi with 5V PSU, and Pi2AES with a battery pack? someone have tried this?

how many batteries are needed to power pi2AES?

Thanks!

 

OK, so if I want to go with the separate PS route.
I have to:
1. Remove the W2 Jumper.
2. Connect 24V Meanweall PS to PI2AES
3. Connect 5V PS to the Raspberry Pi USB connector..

I'm at page 62, read the manual too.

My question is, the power protection and ED works when you have two independent power supplies or only when 24V is on PI2AES (W2 jumper installed).

Thanks!