My grand JVC DX-1000 mods hit a snag, please help :-)

So, I've owned a pair of JVC DX-1000s for about 5 years and loved them. They've got great bass punch and texture, the soundstage is pretty cavernous and impressive for a closed headphone, and the mids are alright. I've been happy with them, but I have alwasy HA-TED the headband assembly it came with. The cheap plastic and the cracking always drove me insane. Functionally, it's pretty fine as I'm not taking these to the gym, but just feeling wise it bothered me. Like the build quality wasn't up to par with the sound quality.

Anyway, I long planned on swapping in a Denon D2/5/7k headband assembly as I'd seen another guy do online, it just too the better part of 4 years to find a mint condition on for a good price. So, I've got that, a mint D2000 everything minus the drivers, I take them all apart, I line things up, and FUUUUUUCK. They seem to have like the exact opposite ideology in how to mount the cups, drivers, and earpads. They're all about the same size, which is great, but use diverging methods. I've captured this in many pictures for you. It seems the "other guy online" just kept the drivers and cups and all that all together, then just subbed them into the headband and gimbals of the Denon D7000 headband, which happens to be a matching champagne colour.

Open each picture in the album and there's a full description of the part.

See this post for pics and my problem, post 2 for my ideas in how to tackle this.

 

I can see 5 issues:

1. The DX1000 wood cups currently have nothing to mount to on the D2000 headband centre frame.
2. There is a large, 5-6mm all the way around, gap around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cup and the centre frame of the D2000.
3. The plastic, angled earpad frame of the DX1000 has nothing to mount to on the D2000 headband centre frame.
4. The DX1000 earpad frame sits 6-7mm above the D2000 centre frame, but should be ~2mm.
5. The Amphenol mini 3pin XLR, male chassis mount connectors are too wide in diameter to fit in the current cable exit holes of the D2000 centre frame.

If you see any other issues, please add them to my list and highlight them in your post.

Possible solutions:
For #1 & 2-
Make a kind of base that fits into the cavity that the wood cup can attach to. It would need to be ~8-12mm thick and have pre-drilled screw holes for the wood cups to attach to. The wood cups would be attached to the custom base unit first, then the base unit would have a second set of holes to attache to the D2000 centre frame unit with. There are existing holes in the D2000 centre frame that could be used for this.

The base unit would be made to go across level with the centre frame of the D2000, then extend inward and fit snugly around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cups.

For #3-
The same snug fitting area that extends around the driver chamber of the DX1000 wood cups would have pre-drilled mounting holes for the DX1000 earpad frame to screw into.

For #4-
The screw posts that you can see in the pictures would need to be almost sanded down flat. I'm not sure if that will lower the frame enough before the posts get sanded through and then become useless, though.

So, any tips here would be appreciated.

For #5-
Mark off and use a Dremel bore out the soft magnesium D2000 centre frame just enough to mount the 3pin mini XLR connectors and nut.

Also drill out the custom base unit that will step off the DX1000 wood cups from the D2000 centre frame so that there's room.


P.S.
The above are only my ideas as I see them now, but I really need some input on this as I have no real idea of what to do.

In my mind I see some how 3D printing the base unit out of something pretty dense being nice, but I have no clue of how to do that or prep any of the work that would be needed to do to make that happen. The second idea I had was making a wooden spacer/base unit, but there's going to be a fair bit of it showing and it'd have to look pretty nice... That's just on the outside, getting all the internals sanded and cut right would be scary.

My initial reasoning for this was because I hated the shitty feeling of the DX1000, so whatever DIY work I do I can't be doing a shitty job because I'm not that kind of guy AND because it would make me want to kick myself in the ass for having ever taken them apart for that reason in the first place...