Schiit Gungnir Multibit impressions

Discussion in 'Digital: DACs, USB converters, decrapifiers' started by Bill-P, Oct 7, 2015.

  1. Josh Schor

    Josh Schor Friend

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    justt tried two changes to Gungnir MB A2.
    1. put an ACme fuse int ($22.00)delevered from revolution audio. Surprised on the improvment, more detail, soundstage bigger with increase in clarity.
    2. removed the inner metal case so the board is in the air, took a slight hardness on the top end and treble away,
    both made nice improvments and did not cost much.

    I am noob with doing this and in the process the from swith button is not working to change inputs? If anyone has thoughts on what I should do besides stop playing with the dac would be appreciated
    best,
    Josh
     
  2. JK47

    JK47 Friend

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    Please don't die from accidental electrocution

    Who the f**k put you up to this knowing you're a newb?
     
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  3. internethandle

    internethandle Almost "Made"

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    I've never taken apart a Gungnir so I'm having some trouble understanding what you did with the chassis. What do you mean by "inner metal case"? When you look at the DAC now, is there metal around the rear inputs/outputs, metal around the front display/input select, or is the whole thing "naked"? There is a round tab/piece of metal that sits in a hole in the front part of many of these Schiit chassis that serves as the "button" for selection inputs. This piece of metal depresses the switch that is soldered/attached to the main board so that when you press on the button on the front of the case the Gungnir will know you are trying to change inputs. If it isn't seated properly, it can cause problems with the switch on the board not getting depressed when you press on the front button. That's my guess for what is going on. Even if you didn't remove the front part of the Gungnir's chassis, these older-style Schiit chassis tend to interlock or fit together in some way, so it would be possible to jostle the button out of proper seating even if you just removed another part of the chassis.
     
  4. Josh Schor

    Josh Schor Friend

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    the inner chassi slids out from the back, the connedctors in the back are exposed and the sides are open. The front looks the same.
    I did this all on my own, yes a newb and a little crazy Gungnir.jpg
     
  5. internethandle

    internethandle Almost "Made"

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    Ok, yeah that’s sort of what I figured you meant by inner case. I still think the likeliest explanation is you jostled the metal button in the front part of the “clamshell” that makes up the front, bottom, and top part of the Gungnir’s chassis and it isn’t making contact. If you can get a good light and shine it through, you should be able to see if it looks like the button is making contact or not with the switch. Do this with the unit turned off for safety. I’ve circled what the switch on the board looks like - sorry hard to find a good quality image of Gungnir insides now:

    IMG_2710.jpeg

    If it looks like it’s no longer flush short of just trying to mess with the button with your finger from the front, unfortunately the optimal solution would be to remove the front chassis portion also, which would involve unscrewing the board from the bottom standoffs etc and removing it, and then directly testing the switch on the board/reseating the button. If you are a newb I would not recommend you do this. You should have someone used to working with electronic innards (electrostatic discharge precautions etc) do it for you. Testing the switch on the board without the chassis on inparticular would require a lot of care - you would just have the board naked resting on only its standoffs, and the unit would need to be powered on to test.

    tl;Dr get someone to help you if you want to troubleshoot it, or send it to Schiit. If you don’t really need to change inputs, just leave it alone.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
  6. purr1n

    purr1n Desire for betterer is endless.

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    The plastic hinges to the PCB on those toggles can be easily broken when the metal button depressing the switch trigger isn't aligned exactly right. What this does is allow the switch mechanism to tilt backward, thus preventing solid contact from the metal button on the trigger.
     
  7. internethandle

    internethandle Almost "Made"

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    Ah yeah if that’s the case you’re kind of screwed without opening the whole thing up.
     
  8. purr1n

    purr1n Desire for betterer is endless.

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    Easy fix, but after repair, use spacers on the standoffs to account for the chassis not being there.

    Word is that it actually does sound better without any metal around the PCB. Maybe someone should provide an acrylic case solution.
     
  9. internethandle

    internethandle Almost "Made"

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    Yeah I’m doing the “Dave style” naked Yggdrasil at the moment. I can’t hear anything different, I don’t think. Definitely not something easily explainable to sane friends, family, and partners you might have over, but then again neither is why I have an Yggdrasil to begin with.
     
  10. purr1n

    purr1n Desire for betterer is endless.

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    I disagree with you not necessarily because I disagree with you.

    I disagree with you because Josh likes certain aspects very specific to the Gungnir A2’s presentation and maybe its synergy with the other components in his system chain. The DS Katalyst has a different presentation. Also OG <> A2.

    I had spoken to Josh early on and my first recommendation for a serious DAC was the Gungnir A2. This isn’t a DAC I usually recommend.

    I have an idea what Josh wants. It doesn’t exist. It would be like an MIB with 2A3 lows and 45 highs. Or an MIB with discrete IV and a crazy high voltage output stage.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2023
  11. willc

    willc Friend

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    Bruh, stop. Marv's nice so he not saying anything, but you are going to be another Marv story about people who destroyed their lives and relationships from chasing the audio dragon.
     
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  12. Josh Schor

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    Marv could you give some more detail on how to repair the switch? I will remove the board from the chassi its in so its naked (did this once already) so I could fix the switch.

    Put the Aucharm fuse in wow this is really nice compared with stock its deep and large sound stage with excellent mids, very nice. This one cost $13.00 delevered well worth it
     
  13. purr1n

    purr1n Desire for betterer is endless.

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    Can you desolder cleanly and then solder?
     
  14. Josh Schor

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    Im really having fun and it sounds better. Having this outer cover makes it look good from the front and opens the board on the back and sides. Yes I can go to far, would not play with the board in any way, parts etc. I love this dac and hope to get a GS as Marv thinks it may be a step up for me.
     
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  15. Josh Schor

    Josh Schor Friend

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    Yes
     
  16. RestoredSparda

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    Be careful. That's a lot of stress on the power, input, and output jacks without the support of the inner case they should be screwed to. I see broken solder joints in your near future.
     
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  17. TheloniuSnoop

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    One option would be to carefully cut away the steel inner case about an inch and a half from the back. That would give you enough left to connect the rear corner screws for support. That would leave the back panel to support the board/connectors. Of course that is a permanent change; no going back.
     
  18. Josh Schor

    Josh Schor Friend

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    I am looking at doing that. I had the first MSB dac way back when and I cut away large sections of the metal casing, it was an improvement. I have a friend who has a metal shop and will ask him about this. yes no going back and I love this dac and plan on keeping it while trying the Yggdrasil GS at some point.
    best,
    Josh
     
  19. TheloniuSnoop

    TheloniuSnoop Friend

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    Kool. Being a charter member of the 'Don't-know-when-to-leave-things-the-he**-alone' club, I may try the same thing. :rolleyes:
     
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  20. joch

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