T50MKIII

Discussion in 'Headphones' started by MuZo2, Oct 4, 2015.

  1. spoony

    spoony Spooky

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    You can 'flatten' the bass peak which helps with the subjective cleanliness. Make a 'mask' over the cup ports with a 2-3mm diameter hole, you can use tape. Try this without disassembling, tape over the vents on the outside and poke a hole with a small screwdriver.

    Edit: Do you have a picture of your mods?
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2020
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  2. Biodegraded

    Biodegraded Friend

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    Ha! No, sorry, everything's reassembled now. If I pull them apart again to insert cotton, plasticine etc. before the new pads arrive, or if after the new pads come they need revisiting, I'll photograph everything then.

    For now they're a bit V-shaped but I'm not too displeased.
     
  3. spoony

    spoony Spooky

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    You should be able to improve the upper mids. Make sure the cosmetic pad is sitting flush with the driver. It's been a while since I had the mk3 to mod and I don't think I used anything else directly against the driver, but there's a small chance I added felt as well between the driver and cosmetic pad.
     
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  4. spoony

    spoony Spooky

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    So I opened up my mk2 pair to see my solution and I found this:

    photo_2020-06-01_09-04-12.jpg

    I have the hole aligned with the cup vent. The pad is now squished and discolored but measures close to new. It's very easy to replace those anyway. You can see I added very thick felt over the cup vents with a smaller port to tune the bass. What's behind the cosmetic pad?

    photo_2020-06-01_09-04-08.jpg

    That's ~2mm wool felt, but I remember many types having approximately the same effect. But didn't the mk2 driver have paper covering the whole backside?

    photo_2020-06-01_09-03-58.jpg

    Not for me, I think I did this to improve the transient response in the bass. So I have a solution which could very much work with the mk3 variants. I hadn't touched it in years since I was happy with the results.

    I'd try the felt or something resembling felt behind the driver next.
     
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  5. Biodegraded

    Biodegraded Friend

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    This is the one in the measurement? Wow you really went all-out there, that must have taken quite a few trials! Is that foam stuffed into the back of the cup?

    Your third photo shows there really is a difference between Mk2 and Mk3 drivers: vent position. From Tyll's photo in my earlier post this isn't obvious because of the 100% paper covering on Mk2. Because the Mk2 driver vent is in the corner, it's almost aligned with the centre of the cup vent whereas being in the lower-middle of the Mk3 driver it's offset from the cup vent. That's interesting and will likely call for some differences in vent-baffling strategy...

    Thanks very much for pulling them apart and photographing, that gives me a few more ideas. I'll report back if I make satisfactory progress.
     
  6. spoony

    spoony Spooky

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    No, I no longer have that pair, this is from a mk2 mod that I still have.

    Yeah, but you could use almost anything there given you tune the other elements around it. (Cotton tends to eat bass, so maybe you'd make the vent bigger)

    Yeah, originally there was no vent, I cut this square to improve on bass impact, and tried to align it with the cup vent so I wouldn't have to worry if some extra damping fell over the vent if it was sideways. The membrane possibly doesn't have the optimal motion due to this, but I didn't find the result objectionable.
     
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  7. Biodegraded

    Biodegraded Friend

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    Ah, now I get it - I understood you'd cut that bit of paper away, but I thought that the 4 holes in the plate beneath were in different places on Mk2 vs Mk3. But now I assume they're everywhere on the plate, so papers aside the driver units could indeed be the same (5 years late to this party so still figuring these things out :confused:).

    Thanks again for all the info.
     
  8. spoony

    spoony Spooky

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    Yeah, they looked pretty much identical to me aside from the damping solution.
     
  9. JK47

    JK47 The Beer Houdini

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    I guess it's time to post where my modded pair of T20RP mkIII have ended up in the grand scheme of things.
    t20rp.jpg
    t20 dist.jpg

    First off, to get the most out of the TxxRP series they need some decent power, so I modded them to accept a mini XLR on the headphone side of things and a 4 pin XLR on the amp side. Careful drilling did the deed for the mini xlr, and yes that is hot glue plugging the old headphone jack, and seals perfectly fine.
    IMG_3164.jpg

    I initially wanted to hear the moar bigger bass of the T20, but in hindsight it's too much and ended up taping the vent fully shut, basically making them a T40. I found thick angled pads from Mr. Speakers and ZMF added too much bass and general frequency fuckery to be of any use to me. I used the stock pads for a long time and they were ok, but the sound was a little lean, so I sourced a set of Dekoni pads that are angled (I think they might actually be for the Fostex TH-X00, I don't remember) but nowhere near as thick as the other two previously mentioned. They work quite well and don't blow up the bottom end all that much.
    IMG_3165.jpg
    I also added the inner earpad foam from the HD650 and one piece of 2 ply toilet paper over the driver to tame the sizzling treble. Other than that, I added 1.5 teased out cotton balls per cup and called it a day. I wanted to keep everything simple, I guess the XLR mod isn't, but these things absolutely crush electronic music when driven by a speaker amp.

    Like many others the Fostex TxxRP series is what got me into DIY and more seriously into the headphone world and high value gear.
     
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  10. Philimon

    Philimon Acquaintance

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  11. spoony

    spoony Spooky

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    Thinner pads as well as narrow entry help with the hot treble.
     

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