The All Purpose Advice Thread

@OJneg has a fantastic thread detailing how to solder together a measurement microphone rig detailed here: http://www.superbestaudiofriends.or...-build-a-cheap-and-easy-measurement-rig.1475/


And if you simply wanted to purchase a mic or incorporate a mic into a measuring setup, there's additional info in the "Post Your Rig" Thread. This one in particular helped me pick out materials necessary to create the headphone stand/mount itself: http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/measurement-setups-post-your-rig.141/

 

Would there be any advantage to using a balanced output on an amp if the DAC input to amp isn't balanced?

I've googled some, but I'm having trouble finding anything that's explained well...

 

Yes, it depends on the amp. See here for more information on balanced drive. Take the DNA Stratus as an example:

http://www.dnaudio.com/DNA-Stratus-2A3-headphone-amplifier.html

Scroll down and see "comments about balanced drive":

 

@ButtUglyJeff did a quick run-through on the jotun and found some differences in gain between all the BAL/SE combos: http://www.superbestaudiofriends.or...jotunheim-impressions.2700/page-44#post-86779

 

Yes. Likely amp to amp basis based on topology, but on Mjolnir 2 for example the balanced out sounds a bit better/gives you the additional power over the single-ended out, even if the input is single ended

 

Nice, looks like I have an excuse to order some XLRs and bust out the soldering station again!

 

I made a general enquiry a few weeks ago and Nick at Schiit said more or less that if the parameters look similar and the heater current does not exceed the stock tubes then it should be good. It looks like the 6CG7 fulfils those requirements - I'm going to pick up a pair and see what happens...

EDIT: Though it is certainly true that 6CG7 is off limits for Lyr 2 and Mjolnir 2 (too much heater current)

 

I have a Modi2U 4396 or a BiMB that I wish to use in a video/movie system. I find myself liking the Modi slightly better overall in this context, but with the BiMB's dialog pops out. I can live with either. Has anyone else had experience with the two for watching movies? Which would you use?

 

My current setup is Yggdrasil>Mojo 1>HD 650

I'm happy with the headphones and DAC, but I'm thinking about upgrading the Mojo. I find it a little lean/bright and would like to move to something with a warmer overall toner balance and better detail extraction.

Looking around, it seems like the Jotunheim or Mojo 2 may be a good move, though the value proposition offered by the Jotunheim looks pretty spectacular.

Anyone move from a Mojo 1 to something else with the 650?

 

I never owned the Mjolnir1, but used to have Mjolnir2, and now use the Jotun. All with HD650. The Mjolnir2 was a great pairing with hd650, and is extremely versatile with other headphones. Jotun is as well, but the strengths are slightly different. Check out the schiit comparison thread for thoughts of others.

For my part, the Jotun is definitely more lean/bright than mjolnir2, although not offensively so. My understanding is the mjolnir2 is generally warmer, and less lean/bright than mjolnir1, which was appreciated by many. I'm guessing the Jotun will not feel like much of a change in those aspects coming from mjolnir1. Notably, Gungnir Multibit is a warmer DAC, and could alleviate some of your concerns, but you would be a fool to part with Yggdrasil unless you were independently contemplating filling for bankruptcy.

 

If staying with SS I would look at the NFB-1AMP instead of the Jotunheim for what you're looking for. The NFB will be a little warmer, a little more body, have a better stage, less treble issues and IMO better detail extraction.

 

Is there any point to messing with any Modi Multibit inputs barring usb if my rig is generally pretty cheap overall anyway (Modi Multibit to jotunheim to hd650)

Like if you guys say there's a chance that buying a six dollar spdif cable will be better for the Modi Multibit than usb I'll definitely give it a shot, but I'm not tryna buy an entirely new sound card and use that to run a chain of seventeen wyrds in a row or some shit that costs more than the entirety of my rig

I've been reading the USB audio thread, but it all seems geared towards people who are looking to spend... Slightly more than six dollars

 

No, not really. If your source is a desktop computer with an open PCI slot scour eBay for something like an RME9632, I wouldn't pay more than $200 for one with the cables included, but I've seen them go as cheap as $100. Otherwise save for a better DAC/amp/headphones, there's no need for someone where you're at to worry about USB nervosa.

 

Audio-Technica AT91B, Ortofon OM 5E, Grado Black1, Ortofon 2M Red, or Ortofon 2M Blue?

 

Sledge hammer

 

Cisco ASR1013

 

Well Jotunheim and HD650 are resolving enough that you would hear differences, so there is a chance that buying a six dollar spdif cable will be better for the Modi Multibit than usb. But it depends on what your potential SPDIF source is. Optical from a macbook - don't bother. SPDIF coax or optical from your motherboard or from a DAP - probably worth a punt. Could be better, the same, or worse, but you won't know until you give it a try. If you have something with an RCA spdif socket, don't bother buying a coax cable - just use a standard phono cable which will probably have roughly the correct impedance anyway. Ditto for a 3.5mm spdif socket.

 

@Ryu

I don't think I explained myself well. Let me try again.

 

Looking at the SPDIF out on my motherboard, I appear to have an optical out

those are generally just to not be fucked with on the majority of PCs, right? I'm imagining mine is noisier than average because I just chucked fans in wherever I could when I built it.

 

No, you're going to want a cable with the correct 75ohm impedance for a digital signal. A regular RCA can be used, but it is not optimal due to possible reflections from the impedance mismatch. Digital RCA coaxial cables are cheap anyways.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_cable

Give it a try and report back. All mobos are not created equally. USB sucks but I'd recommend you wait a little bit if the Optical is worse than your USB. If you find a cheap RME9632 or AES16, then it's worth it in the long run. Otherwise, wait.