Post Your Computer Build

I wish i made a foto of my Athlon Thunderbird cooled by a radiator from a Golf 2 and a big yellow bucket.

 

Still jealous of the yacht build. Enclosure and build options have gotten much more boring and cookie-cutter over the past decade.

Speaking of paint-by-numbers builds with overly dramatic photography...







Pretty much the only interesting thing about this one is the J-Hack M2426, which (given the industry reception on ATX12VO) may still end up being offbeat for some time.

But I'm looking forward to the next "sandwich layout / riser cable" or PC-CK101L revolution for PC building.

 

My GTX 980 just died and, although it's a very bad time for getting a new gfx card, I had to get a replacement. At the same time I was thinking about a case for miniATX and would like to ask about your cube. What is it?

 

It's the FormD T1. 9.5L, fully CNC'd aluminum (except steel mesh side panels and brass standoffs), flat-packed and tedious to assemble.

I moved on from the DAN A4-SFX as it became increasingly obvious that 2.2-slot GPU support wouldn't be sufficient for the near future. T1 supports 240mm AIOs and triple-slot GPUs simultaneously for "only" 2.3L more.

V1.1 is sold out currently and they only drop in small batches, although I think they're planning to release 2.0 shortly (announced on their Reddit). V2.0 is slightly larger at over 10L but offers improved hardware support, e.g. full-thickness 25mm fans with a suitably thin 240mm radiator.

 

That looks great but also very expensive. Can't find prices anywhere, but I assume that CNC job like this one was at least $400?

How are your temps considering small size (...and probably limited airflow?) of that case?

 

When periodically available, the 1.1 was $210USD + shipping (~$40-45 to North America). I think they saved costs through flat-packing and minimizing other material costs -- there's no front panel connectors and the main parts outside of the case frame and panels are the internal power cable, Ice power outlet and ADT riser cable which are all pretty cheap. No idea how much 2.0 will cost though.

A few months ago using the EK120 AIO with a Arctic P12 in push exhaust (and another Arctic P12 as case exhaust) with a -30mV PBO-undervolted 5900X I recorded the following temps at 19'c ambient:

• Cinebench R20
  • 31.28W peak package power
  • 64'c peak temp
  • 1.21k RPM on P12s
  • 8750 score
• Blender BMW
  • 133.57W peak package power
  • 73'c peak temp
  • 1.3k RPM on P12s
  • 1:55.04 render time
• Blender Gooseberry Benchmark
  • 140.7W peak power
  • 79'c peak temp
  • 1.6k RPM on P12s
  • 8:41.69 render time
• Red Dead Redemption 2
  • 3080FE pegged between 56-62'c
  • 5900X between 71-79'c (60-85W package power)

 

Yes, after doing some research it turns out that $200 is a lot already. I dig that minimalist look.

Those temps aren't crazy by any stretch.

 

And over an year later this mouse died due to mousewheel keep screwing up. Super easy for dust and other crap to get in it and mess up the scrolling. I opened up the second time and the wires were barely soldered to the PCB and snapped.

So I purchased the Logitech MX Master 3:



So far for $100 it is pretty snappy feeling. It still looks easy for dirt and other things to get under the mousewheel, but the Bluetooth connection works damn well and the customization is great for productivity nerds like me. Mousewheel scrolls super nice for long web pages. Still learning other things about this mouse.....

 

Great choice!

I've been using an MX Master 2S at work for years now, it's a fantastic mouse. It's incredibly reliable and I love how it takes months between charges. I use it with the dongle, which I think helps the battery life a bit. My one pain point with it is that it charges over microusb instead of usb c, but that's not really enough to justify the upgrade to the MX Master 3.

These things are actually super well-built. I bought one of the previous MX mice about 10-12 years ago (with the full horizontal scroll wheel) and my father's still using it as a daily driver. If I recall correctly, that thing uses a rechargable AA that he replaces every couple years to keep it fresh. Unfortunately the newer mice use a non-replaceable li-ion, so they might not have the same longevity.

At home I'm all in on trackballs with an Elecom HUGE. Trackballs = best input method, fight me.

 

Roccat Kone xtd lover here. I do absolutely no gaming, but find use for all the programmable buttons in ordinary browsing, photo viewing, etc. How do people live without previous/next, page-up/page-down, home/bottom, F11, to name but a few, at their mouse fingertips!

No official Linux drivers, but community development is supported, so full functionality is available.

I don't know what I would do without it. It's become as much muscle memory as a keyboard (although I'm not a real touch typist).

It gets the cat fur removed from its insides from time to time, with occasional more-serious surgery, eg DeOxit cleaning for micro-switch contacts.

It is still available, but not, presently, in this country. I do hope to get a spare, sometime soon.

 

The only device I have left that I still need to use MicroUSB is my Amazon Kindle Oasis 3. Unless Amazon makes the next gen Oasis super special, I'm keeping my Oasis 3.

So on your 2S you don't have to use the dongle for Bluetooth? I just use the dongle since I thought you have to use it, seems fine as is.

I do like the hori scroll wheel. I used the Logi software that you have to install for the Master 3 so you can tell the mouse that this hori scroll wheel is back/froth in Roon. Super useful and very customizable. I wish there was a way to customize the gesture button to the features that I want.

 

So you can connect these directly over Bluetooth or over Logitch's unifying receiver dongle-- if you look at the bottom of the mouse, it has both icons (right above the power switch). There's also a connections toggle button with three programmable connections. The way I've got mine set up is connection 1 is to the unifying dongle, which I leave plugged into the dock on my desk, and connection 2 is over bluetooth so I can still use the mouse if I take the laptop somewhere.

My understanding is that the unifying receiver stuff is a different 2.4 Ghz connection that's lower latency and lower power than general purpose Bluetooth so I use that when I can, but I also don't want to break or lose my dongle when I'm tossing the laptop in a bag.

 

Just came back to confirmed that yes I was able to use bluetooth with the mouse on my Samsung tablet. Very useful....thanks!

 

The MX Revolution uses a "non-replaceable" battery, too. I've replaced mine four or five times, and when the battery in my MX Master 3 dies I'll replace it, too.

Logitech batteries aren't custom, so they're available from third parties, even on Amazon. And I've never seen one soldered in; you just unplug the old and plug in the new. Only takes a few minutes.

Assembly screws are usually under the mouse feet, so you have to peel those off and replace them when you replace the battery -- or punch appropriately-located holes so you can reach the screw heads without removing them.

 

FYI, it's also much less secure than Bluetooth -- vulnerable not just to eavesdropping (an attacker recording your keystrokes), but also to hijacking (an attacker injecting their own keystrokes and taking control of your machine).

 

Mouse screws under it's feet

According to your mouse and how you use it, this is either a good idea or a non starter. It works for me.

Peeling back the nice, low-friction pads on my mouse, I realised that they were stuck well, but would unstick/re-stick a limited number of times. After the second or third time, I didn't bother to put the screws back. I can pick the mouse up; it does not fall apart. I can easily take the two parts apart. I seldom need to pick it up from the mat anyway.

YMMV

(Your mouse may vary)

 

I do some gaming and I've been very happy with Logitech G502 for about five years now. Prior to that I had a wireless Razer Naga.

 

My old monitor stand was simply too small and too low for my liking, and whilst surfing around on a local online site, I saw that a 100cm x 28cm clamp-on type monitor mount was available. It has a height clearance of about 13cm, more than enough for my Oppo HA-1. I was using the iFi Micro iDSD BL simply because it was low enough even for my old monitor stand. With the HA-1, I can start using my 3rd party Balanced 4pin XLR cables for my various cans. Bought a digital clock as well to go with the new monitor mount.


Oh yeah, using a Logitech G703 mouse, with a Ducky Shine 4 69 Fire (6 color LEDs, 9 switch types)....

 

I posted about my new build on my profile, but I actually built it today since the case showed up last night.

the parts:
Motherboard: MSI Z690 Edge DDR4
CPU: Intel i7-12700k
GPU: EVGA RTX 3080ti FTW3
RAM: G.Skill 32GB 3600MHz CL18
SSD: Samsung 2tb 970 Evo Plus
PSU: Seasonic Prime Titanium 1000W
Case: Fractal Meshify 2 Compact
Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S Chromax Black









The heat that 3080ti can put out when its going full tilt hasn't been exaggerated. The glass next to it gets pretty hot after a few hours gaming session.

 

My next case, if I ever move up from mITX!