ECP Torpedo III [indexed in first post]

Some older ones could also be this one:
http://edcorusa.com/content/Manuals/XPWR191_120-240cs.pdf

 

Anyone can comment on the heat after the output CCS? The stock form t3 doesn't get too hot, I can hold my hand on the chassis after a few hours of warmup and not burn myself, I like that. The EC Zana Deux on the other hand get so hot I could cook an egg on it and probably 2nd degree burns. I like that amp too but I dare not fondle it.

 

The heat on my T3 is VERY high compared to before after the output ccs mod. It is uncomfortably hot but might not burn me unless i hold it there for a while.

 

Fondling the amp while it plays music for you is half the fun. Maybe use oven mitts? Srsly though my T3 with ccs gets back to me on Friday (wooooo) so I can fondle it and get back to you but my memory of @bazelio 's is that it gets hot but not ZDS deep frier hot.

 

Hmmm. I am not happy that the heat is so high. If this proves to be a problem, we may need to turn down the current slightly. We really should only dissipating less than 2 extra watts with the CCSes, but maybe that's enough to push these over the edge.

Trust Tom on the part number here - I did not have it in front of me.

 

Thanks for the PT info, fellas.. sending it over to my dad tomorrow.. let's see what happens.

 

The extra heat after the output CCS install is certainly noticeable, and I've been tempted to take the chassis cover out to my drill press to add a little extra ventilation. But, I've run music through mine for many hours and have left it powered up and active over night without problem. For whatever that's worth...

 

Agreed. I've installed and run-in four of them so far. While heat is definitely increased, it's not objectionable if you are used to a Class A amp. As long as you don't use a tube that also exceeds the design heater current, there 's no issue with extended running times.

This might be more serious if you are operating the amp in tight quarters or have a high ambient temp. My ambient has been running around 74 - 76 during this summer heat and I have no issues.

 

Although I can't comment on the specific case here, sometimes drilling holes may actually worsen the heat situation. Natural convective heat flow is very slow, especially if there isn't a smooth path for the air to flow. Air itself is also a lousy heat conductor. If anything, putting holes in the side to let cooler air in would be better than adding more to the top... assuming we can actually develop a quasi-equilibrium flow state. Toss room air currents into the mix and that's a whole 'nuther mess.

When there's a closed case, all the heat that's concentrated inside touches the thermally conductive casing and transfers it far away where the room air will eventually pull it off. Putting holes in means there are tiny spots for the hot air to escape (slowly), but conversely the amount of heat transferred to the rest of the case is diminished. So ultimately it's a tradeoff, and there may in fact be a mathematical solution for most optimal ventilation arrangement blah blah blah.

 

So I'm curious if anyone has tried the 5751 in a T3? It is normally a very nice sounding tube, particularly black plate GE and RCA triple mica versions, in most amps. @dsavitsk any concerns?

 

Does orientation matter? To save desk space, I have my Wyrd standing on edge rather than on its feet.

 

Looks OK. Heater is slightly higher which will mean a bit more heat, and possibly a bit more noise. rp is also high, so it is possibly you'll lose treble - probably nothing audible, though.

 

The Wyrd does not generate enough heat for this to be a concern. Even if it did... I don't think the difference would be particularly significant. I would lean towards heat flow being a bit better with the case on edge, but with a hard boundary (ie: a table) below it this may be moot.

 

Just got my TIII back this morning with the CCS boards. First and foremost huge thanks to @TomB for tremendous work and for going to such great lengths with resistor experimentation. After a few email exchanges we settled on CCS boards without amtrans resistors.

I have to say this amp was always of the musical and engaging kind, but it's on another level now. The first thing that jumps out at me is deep bass with way more slam. The kind of bass that can be heard but also felt. The second change is just crazy dynamics. The TIII was always an engaging amp, but now it's more dynamic and engaging and gripping, Tom described string plucks that can knock your eye out. Finally, it's hard to go from memory here, but it's super resolving and presents so much micro detail it's just nuts. This thing sounds great.

To those worried about heat -- it's definitely a bit warmer than before, but doesn't reach the skin-damage, surface-of-the-sun levels of the ZDS. I've had mine on for quite a few hours and it's definitely warm to the touch but i can keep my hand on it indefinitely.

 

picture or it didn't happen:

 

Nice. The more I read about T3, the more I want. This has taken it to the next level...

 

Got output CCS installed last night. I also changed out the resistors at R23-R26 with TKD 2watt CM2 resistors. Probably not best to do them at the same time, but I only wanted to open up the amp once for now. Also added Dow Corning 748 to the parafeed caps as recommended.

I don't have my normal source or headphones with me, but yeah, nice upgrade! I'm looking forward to checking it out with normal rig tomorrow.

Has anyone tried Torp3 with any of the new Focal cans? Sorry if I missed it somewhere.

 

Had been out of town and came home to a new set of plate loading resistors (everyone's favorite topic) in my mail box. Well what with the talk of bloom and such from AMRG's I thought I'd take a flyer on a set of Z foils I found for a good deal on EBay even before hearing @brencho 's unit compared to mine. My desoldering skills are pretty solid now, LOL. Early impressions: I can confirm that AMRG resistors are no longer needed in order to compensate for a lean tonality. The CCS output boards have definitely done the trick. With these new metal foil resisotrs in the plate load positions, I'm getting the fullness I had with AMRGs before CCS boards, but now more sparkle up top / treble clarity. While I didn't think it was hurting in those departments before, I can actually hear a difference now. And, I might say bass is tighter and more accurate, but not by much. I don't think I ever heard the bloom others have ascribed to the AMRG resistors. BTW, I also suspect the regular Dale metal film resistors will achieve more or less the same results, but I sure do think the clarity and neutrality with these metal foils is superb. I think the whole sound signature is yet another step forward in its presentation, however. The CCS boards brought everything forward a notch, and apparently the AMRGs were imparting their own slightly laid back character on the final sound before. But now... that's gone and honestly, for me, the additional forwardness is not particularly offensive. The extra detail is quite nice.. And so, the metal foils are here to stay. AMRGs are retired. The overall tonality, I think, really can't get any more natural at this point.

PS hopefully they don't blow up. They're right on the edge at a 0.6W max power rating. We will see, but Doug's calculations seem to indicate it'll be OK. I'd normally like a bit more margin, however.

PSS No pics. But it happened.

 

Haha, I've always lusted after the z foils - that's pretty cool.

My amp's physical noise from the PT has changed with the addition of the output CCS boards. It's both a bit higher in pitch and also a bit quieter. Weird.

 

These guys? I gelly.

http://www.partsconnexion.com/resistors_vishay_var.html