//-----------Tak's Stupid HD700 Mods-----------// See part one on changstar for disassembly: http://static.changstar.com/www.changstar.com/index.php/topic,2627.msg78989.html#msg78989 //--Part 2: Actually modding the fucking thing--// I spent a lot of time dicking around with this headphone... and I mean a LOT. I've taken it apart almost entirely over and over again, and put dynamat, creatology foam, felt, and blutak in all of its many orificies. Literally all of them. Yes, I have molested this headphones in ways I've never done with any other. This poor little bastard child was my defenseless prison bitch. And it did nothing. Nothing I did induced any significant sonic changes. Literally jack shit. Turns out this is actually a well designed headphone that was simply tuned awfully. The 6kHz peak and ridge on this fucker had absolutely nothing to do with the baffle plate. Not reflections, not resonance from the driver mount, absolutely nothing of the sort was going on inside this fucker. Well played, Sennheiser. So I racked my brain for weeks, and after even further experimentation, I finally found the problem. It was the fucking EARPADS this entire time. Take a close look at the rear of the earpad, the headphone side, the one that the driver's frontwave hits directly. That's pleather. Pleather reflects sound waves, which is why it boosts bass response. And its not just any pleather either, its the super cheap chinese shit used on most sub-$20 headphones. And it's right smack dab in the middle of one of the most key acoustic regions of a headphone. Unbelievably stupid. I discovered this by trying other earpads on the headphone: Pads from my Sony MDR-605, which was a low-end version of the MDR-F1. These pads almost entirely fixed the headphone: killed the midbass hump, AND the 6kHz peak, AND the 2kHz dip. Unfortunately, this headphone is long long discontinued and I had to find another method to fix this headphone. Well, I figured out something that works. This guide will show you how to do it. Required tools and materials: The headphone Needle and thread -- I used Coats Upholstery Thread. Be careful with your thread choice as cheap threads tend to knot while working. Use a small-ish needle. Basic sewing skill Small scissors or shears 3 ish hours of free time Filter paper -- This comes from the inside of medical face masks, the non-rigid type. This is the brand I got. The paper is somewhat waxy feeling while still remaining permeable. WARNING: This is a DESTRUCTIVE mod. If you can't afford to buy another pair of earpads in the event that you fuck up, be prepared to go without a headphone for a while. Start by taking the earpads off the headphone. Do not remove the mounting rings; they are necessary as they provide a solid part as a reference while you're shaping the earpad. Alright, here's the destructive part. Start ripping the inner seam of the pads apart. These are pressed earpads so you don't have any stitches to worry about, but you do have to take it slowly and be careful. It becomes easier once you get the rip started. (I missed a photo here, my apologies. Thank god it was just using scissors.) Still destroying shit. You'll need to cut out the pleather. MAKE SURE YOU LEAVE ENOUGH ROOM TO STITCH IT BACK TOGETHER! I gave myself a generous 3/16" seam allowance. I would not suggest going lower. Be as precise as possible with this cut so your pad doesn't end up all lumpy looking. Make sure you pull it tight when you cut it so you don't end up with too much slack. The more of this that's left over, the more will be there for the driver to reflect off of when you're done. Keep that in mind. Pick a spot and start stitching. This will take a long time, trust me. The easiest way to do this is to start in the top of the pad and do a running stitch. Pinch the foam together like so and put your needle in the velour from the outer side. Poke it through the front of the pleather and bring it back through the pad opening. Repeat about 3 or 4 times, keeping it loose, then pull it tight. Keep going, keeping your stitches tight. A good start... Still going... The light at the end of the tunnel is visible... And done. I overlapped the first stitches and pulled both ends tight before tying it off. Compare to the stock pads. The new pad is much thinner and has less over the driver. Ideally, there'd be zero over the driver, but from what I can tell that's impossible. Now you have to do all of it again. Hey, I never said this was a fun mod. Done and attached. These pads look fantastic, oh my god. And since I didn't take these pictures in order, you can see the seam allowance I used on the unsewn left pad after all. Hit the post length limit I guess?? Continued on next post.