Raspberry Pi2 and Hifiberry Digi+: A cheap transport that made me happier

So DIY it will have to be...

 

Guys, something to consider trying is a USB3 to gigabit ethernet adapter with your Pi. I was using the ethernet port to get music from my wireless bridge that receives the music from the wireless router upstairs where my NAS is attached to it. With this adapter I am now able to use the Pi usb as my network port.

Someone much smarter than me explained the potential reason why I heard improvement:

The big, big, big issue with noise and Ethernet on the Pi is that the Ethernet transformer center taps are tied to the Raspberry Pi 3.3V plane. It has a ferrite, but that is to keep out noise in the MHz range and up, not in the audio range. In fact, the purpose of the center tap is to shunt common mode noise to the power plane! Although a solution is to use wireless, a better solution is to use a hat that does not use the Raspberry Pi 3.3V rail.
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BTW I posted my thoughts on how the Digi+ sounds compared to my fully tweaked (and much more expensive) PC. Here is the link:
http://www.superbestaudiofriends.or...ry-pi-i2s-to-spdif-hat.1990/page-9#post-52364

In a nutshell I feel the Pi and Digi sounds warmer with a bit of an emphasis on the mids and midbass. It is also not as extended. Dont get me wrong, the Pi and Digi sounds very good and close to my PC but the subtle differences are what to me distinguishes a good and great system.

 

Setting up to measure power draw now-- different pi's, powering certain parts separately etc. I'll try to see the max power draw I can get on a pi3 down to an underclocked piZERO-- also I'll show disabling hdmi, setting the cpu to not switch clock speed continuously, separate wifi, ethernet etc-- checking the heat on the LT3042 at the same time.

Anything else?

 

Hi, the lt3042 arrived here too.
Edit- removed premature consideration

@Scott Kramer I'd like to know how to stop the pi2 from switching clock speed and maybe to underclock it.

 

Just started looking into getting a wireless setup for myself and someone pointed me towards the DIY Raspberry Pi arena. I have no experience with the Pi, but I'm reading up.

So essentially, I would get the Pi and the Digi+ board and run it into my Modi2Uber>Vali 2>headphones correct? Is the sound quality any less than running usb from my main PC to my Modi2Uber?

 

Raspberry noob here...

I know a little about it, but can someone post or send me a link on these raspberry\digi+ building kits and setups please.

This seems like a really good option as I would rather not have things playing through my Windows laptop at work. It is annoying enough to have to use all three of my USB ports (keyboard, wireless mouse receiver, and DAC output), I have none leftover for thumb drives or to charge my phone. Yes I could get a hub, but why would I if I could have a better DAC output option that would free up a USB port.

 

Here's what I used (not affiliate links):

• Flash card: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Adapter-MB-MP32DA-AM/dp/B00IVPU786
• SPDIF hat: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiBerry-Digi-Transformer-Version/dp/B01578WELW
  
• Power supply: http://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Supply-Adapter-Charger/dp/B00MARDJZ4
• Raspberry Pi: http://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Model-Project-Board/dp/B00T2U7R7I
• Digital cable: Belden 1694A from https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/digital-audio/index.htm

 

Sunday DIYing...
I bent the 3,3V pins od the gpio and went straight into the digi+ with a separate 3,3V LPS instead of letting the digi+ be fed by the raspberry and his switching 3,3V regulator.
Also I feed the 5V for the raspberry through the digi+ (I heard thatthe digi itself doesn't need it if not for the toslink). I like it this way.
The difference is tangible. More effortless smooth sound. More music in the room. I can't wait to try the LT3042 regulator this way.
Also I can't understand why hifiberry does not support this mod and states that he thinks it is not an improvement. Go figure.

Guys if you happen to have 2 LPS rails (5V for the raspberry and 3,3V for the digi) try this.
Or maybe just wait for @Michael Kelly SPD 1\2 hat, which will have his own respectable regulator onboard.

I decline every responsability for damage!


1 - Bend pins 1 and 17 on the raspberry


2 - Solder the connector you like or stripped thin wire on pins 1 (+3,3V yellow) and 9 (GND black)

I used some SIL pins I had around, 2 on the board an 2 on the wires to remove the wires in case I need it

 

I spoke to Greg of Bryston and they had this as a static display at T.H.E. Show. They are aiming for a July launch at $1,200. They have it Roon Ready, as are their other dac/streamers. It is a Raspberry Pi, with a custom power supply, display and a five year warranty.

 

$1200 raspberrry pi?

nopenopenopenopenope

 

The PI is a small piece in that machine. Buy a raspberry Pi, screen, Digi +' good linear power supply, nice case and a hire a couple of coders, manufacturing costs and 5 year warranty, price is not that far fetched.

 

I was kinda hoping for a 1TB SSD and maybe a few more goodies for the price point...

 

So true. LIke @Eugene du Toit said, it will probably not cost too far from putting it together. I think if you can DIY a brilliant power supply, make a custom hat based on the HifiBerry Digi+, put it in a nice aluminum shell, resolve power and interference then you are way ahead of a lot of audio loving people, who won't be able to pull it off.

Personally, I like Bryston. They are a very sensible company that sells to pro and consumer markets, and makes bulletproof stuff, so I think its refreshing for them to try this. They are like Schiit for pros. Hopefully the exercise helps advance knowledge and lead to better sound.

A lot of people who aren't looking at this space will start. I don't know about you, but a third of the people I saw at T.H.E. Show show can be dead in ten years, fifteen years max .

This is for them (well, us old farts).

 

Re: That Bryston:



Looks like they collab'd with hifiberry for the WM8804 circuit (so it's using the internal PLL, will be interesting to see if @Michael Kelly's D1/D2 can out perform this). Couldn't find any actual internals on the finished product, wonder if the power supplies are even included. Curious on what that output stage is all about...

Looks like they are 2 steps ahead in some areas & 2 behind in others--

 

July's around the corner.

 

Auralic Aries Mini (USD500) and NuPrime WR100 (USD100) are more sensibly priced than the Bryston

 

Getting back to testing pi's and power supplies, also got another pi3 (after selling the first, it was on sale, to test as worst case )! Side-tracked listening to new Elac UB5's, very revealing, in a diff way from my Veritas speakers. Andrew Jones slipped in TAD concentric drivers... he's giving them to us, and he designed the tweeters (soft dome) to 30K+... to get a perfect 20Khz. and it shows (sounds like it!).

 

I quote myself and I take it back. No power supply included. Just an external smps, NO bryston secret sauce. 1200$ for a Pi2 and a modified Digi plus TFT screen.
There are optional 12V PSU available from bryston though.... like the 1500$ MPS-2. Enjoy! LOL

 

Why would they have 12 volts coming in? To accommodate their stand alone power supplies?

 

Maybe use it in a car?