New Schiit Vali 2 Discussion Thread

Discussion in 'Headphone Amplifiers and Combo (DAC/Amp) Units' started by jexby, Dec 11, 2015.

  1. allegro

    allegro Friend

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    Thanks for the tip! After a couple of years my Vali 2 developed a hum problem not tube related so I bought a new one and it is v1.1.
     
  2. hutt132

    hutt132 Rando

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    Thanks! Now what if I wanted to use the Jot as a preamp for the Vali 2 so I could switch between them easier? Would I turn the Vali 2 all the way up in this case?
     
  3. Cspirou

    Cspirou They call me Sparky

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    If you want to switch between them it's better to use y-splitters

    Or Schiit Sys if you want an actual switch
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2019
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  4. hutt132

    hutt132 Rando

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    Picked up an Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 Orange Globe Logo O-Getter tube today and it sounds pretty good. I want to say that it sounds better than the stock NOS 6BZ7 tube, but I'll have to spend some more time swapping between them to see.

    The seller listed the tube measurement as:
    9000/10100
    where minimum good value is 7750

    Do those measurements really mean anything? Could it mean that the one side is quieter?
     
  5. Senorx12562

    Senorx12562 Case of the mondays

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    Yes, it could mean just that. Then again it could mean nothing. If it sounds good, just listen to the music and enjoy.
     
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  6. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    Now I have had this amp for a few weeks, I will comment on a few tubes. Already much said on it's overall sound, so I feel like I am just an echo chamber, but...here is my running stream of consciousness with different tubes that I will rate in preference:

    Source - Modi MB
    Headphones - HD650 and modded T50RP's

    • Amperex ECC88/6DJ8 - this one was labeled an HP tube (yes, Hewlett Packard), with a top halo getter
    This one is what I would consider "lush". Creamy mids, good lows, and those ever sweet highs. The upper mids take a back seat, so guitars don't sound up front, but vocals just pop out of the mix in a very detailed fashion. This is the most relaxed tube I have tried and if wanting a laid back sound from the stock or other tubes, this is it.
    • Sylvania JAN 6DJ8 - date code on mine is 3/78, so some of the last built USA 6DJ8 tubes
    This really shows off what the Vali 2 is capable of. The top is extended, the lows kind of extended, but very controlled. The top can be a bit splashy and cymbals more clangy than the smoother Amperex. However, I feel like it is providing some extension without distortion. Not laid back, but not up front. Still very wide presentation and I find one of the best all-rounder neutral tubes I have found. Excellent choice and cheap cheap. I would not worry about matching on these. Most of these are still NIB/NOS government overstock. This tube has more excitement and very lively, but still great depth and staging. Might be a bit fatiguing for some.
    • GE JAN 5670W - government overstock, made in the USA, mine has a date code of 12/87 (adapter required)
    GE version of the WE 396A. Still breaking in this tube, but I feel is somewhere in-between the Amperex and the Sylvania. It has the detailed mids like the Amperex, but the high end and upper mids is more like the Sylvania. Still, a wide presentation, but tighter controlled lows. Seems to get congested easier with complicated passages.
    • Electro Harmonix 6CG7 - new production
    These are taller tubes and were the 9-pin replacement for 6SN7's. Fatter bottom, but not an overall smooth sound. Slightly rolled off at top and bottom. Kind of grainer mids, but a decent replacement for the harshness and dryer stock tube. Sounds kind of wet, but stage is closed off and more flat.
    PS - all tubes I acquired on fleabay for under $20 a piece. The GE and Sylvania tube were even under $10, but the GE does require an adapter, so be careful.
     
  7. Marko

    Marko Rando

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    Hi all! I'm a former Garage1217 Horizon and Solstice owner. I was quite happy with both amps, but I thought I'd try something else. I already had a Modi Multibit and Eitr, so the Vali 2 was an obvious choice. (I wasn't ready to spend $500 on a Lyr.) I just got the Vali 2 (1.1) yesterday and I'm running a Brimar 6SN7GT black glass. It's pure bliss! So far I think the SQ equals and maybe even surpasses the G1217 amps. I put a bigger volume knob on it to make it a little easier to reach over and adjust with one finger, because I'm just that lazy. ;-) My apologies to any purists out there.

    I wonder if anyone has both the 1.0 and 1.1 versions and can do a comparison. Just curious because all the reviews out there are of the 1.0, and most of them are very positive. Can't help but wonder if the 1.1 changes made it even better.


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
  8. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    I wonder this as well. The board differences seem to between the two is that the 1.1 has more capacitors on the board. There are some who complained of popping when turning on, bjt have not seen any at all in awhile. I wonder of the caps helped better with settling the DC current maybe?

    I have tbe 1.0, and there is a small pop, but only slightly more than with the Liquid Spark.

    The only other difference is the knob of course
     
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  9. Marko

    Marko Rando

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    Right - I noticed that the 1.1 version has two more caps on the power side and was wondering if they had any effect on the sound.

    As for the popping, it's still there. That's the one thing that's disappointing - the pop is so loud that I feel compelled to unplug my headphones before I turn on the amp. Shouldn't the soft start relay prevent that? Never had any pop whatsoever with the G1217 amps.
     
  10. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    I notice certain tubes pop more than others. I think it is just more tube dependent.

    The power caps might have been added due to people putting 6CG7's and ECC188's, which have more heater current draw and the 1.0 was probably just a little close to the current limit.
     
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  11. Marko

    Marko Rando

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    That's interesting - I'll have to see whether the pop changes with different tubes - for example the 0.6A 6SN7 or 6BZ7 and the 0.33A 6DJ8.

    You're saying the heater will support 1.0A? I hope you're right, but I kind of doubt that they've beefed up the heater above a 0.6A current. I would love to be able to use a 0.8A 6N7 or a 0.95A ECC32. Unfortunately, Schiit isn't exactly forthcoming about that kind of information.

    Maybe I'll roll in a Mullard ECC32 and leave it on overnight... Naw... ;-)
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
  12. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    NO. Sorry. Context was Version 1.0. I always put V, A, W, or mA or whatever is appropriate if speaking exact electronic measurements. Sorry for the confusion.

    I think Jason mentioned earlier in this thread the heater current limit is about 600mA. I would not go past that. 6DJ8/6922 and even 7DJ8's and 5670W are 300mA to 365mAor so. 6CG7 is at 600mA.
     
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  13. Marko

    Marko Rando

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    Sorry - I misunderstood you.

    You're right that there's a large number of tubes that are at or under 600mA. I'm glad that includes the 6SN7s, 6F8Gs and 6J5s (pairs) that I used in the G1217 amps. They might look a little silly sitting on top of the Vali, but then they looked silly poking up out of the other amps. I've grown very fond of them and would hate to give them up.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
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  14. Philimon

    Philimon Friend

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    Can someone tell me which is the correct vintage Sovtek 6922 to get?

    Example A

    Example B
     
  15. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    Example B.

    The black print was done WAY after the fact and look of the same print as from the newer EH/Sovtek factory.
     
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  16. Zampotech

    Zampotech Friend

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    If you want to get a beautiful tube of Russian production, look for 6N23P-EV

    It differs from the standard 6922/6N23P/ECC88 anode. The anode has rectangular slits.

    On a photo it is visible


    [​IMG]
     
  17. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    In addition to my review of the RCA 6CG7 post with the Lyr 3, here, I wanted to test the RCA 6CG7 with the Vali 2 to see if the goodness of that tube could translate. The short answer to that question is YES.

    Most of us know, or should know, that the Electro Harmonix 6CG7 is a good match with the Vali 2. Although some say it is a bit rolled off on the top and bottom, but still a good pairing for soundstage and details. The RCA has all of this, but extends the low and the high end. All of the tube goodness with details, lush mids, warm lows, and natural highs, are all there. EH did use the RCA clear top 6CG7 as their benchmark, so I can see the sound signature they were going for, but just not quite all the way there.

    I will say that there is a bit of a bass bloom with this tube. I liken it to the Ken-Rad smoked glass 6SN7 tube, although the RCA has a bit better in the high end and more balanced overall.

    Not quite as much low end and detail as when the same tube is in the Lyr 3, but this RCA 6CG7 is my preferred tube in the Vali 2 for sure.
     
  18. Biodegraded

    Biodegraded Friend

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    Thanks for this. Just to confirm, this is the type with the 3 plates (or rather 2 plates and an intervening shield) and a side getter, right? So a 'real' 6CG7 rather than what's commonly listed as '6CG7/6FQ7', but which has just the two plates?
     
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  19. ShaneD

    ShaneD Rando

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    Would this be the tube you are referring to?
    https://www.thetubestore.com/rca-6cg7-6fq7?cur=CAD

    Shane D
     
  20. rtaylor76

    rtaylor76 Can't wipe his tag

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    Exactly as you said. Other 6CG7's will not have a shield between sections and are technically 6FQ7's, but still be listed as a 6CG7.

    That has the later RCA logo and no shield between sections. Not that the sections are actually needed, but more as an indicator of how old the tube is as the early ones do have the shield. So this may be the same or similar to the one I have, but that is a high price for that tube.
     
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