Schiit Bifrost 2

I am now a member of the 2/64 club.

I'll save impressions for when it has some hours on it, but right away it isn't bright or sibilant.

Actually, my OG card seems to have a significant amount of grime on the contacts. I'm wondering how and when this could have possibly happened, and whether I should consider cleaning the internal contacts of the BF2 as well? Almost makes me curious to clean them off and try the original again.

 

the BF2 continues to surprise me with how much it scales with upstream tweaks.

I'd argue it really needs a top tier source, unlike the Yggdrasil, which in my experience seems to work extremely well out of the box with even a noisy laptop.

Maybe it has an inferior clocking scheme (relative to Yggdrasil) or something, but I've done some upstream tweaking to my source and power conditioning and the BF2 has scaled liked mad, nudging closer to Yggdrasil levels... still a bit simplified, but shockingly transformative compared to my earlier experiences with it years ago where it sounded kind flat and dull overall. Now it is brimming with vitality and resolution.

 

could you share a list of your tweaks? Thank you!

 

The biggest change was the most bizarre and I did it because I was bored... I just daisy chained an old SL Waber wavetracker I had sitting in the closet, into my Belkin Pure AV power conditioner which is my main conditioner. All the usual changes but more so... blacker background, more transparency/realism overall, etc. Just seemed to clean up the power even further.

I put my laptop (which is my control PC with Roon on it that feeds a USBridge streamer) into the conditioner which I'd neglected to do before. Same for my google fiber puck, which was another "bored so f**k it" situation, seemed to add some fluidity and coherency... subtle but noticeable. Basically just making sure anything audio related was plugged into the new conditioner configuration.

Also Fidelizer Pro which is computer optimization for audio for the laptop. Further blacker background, clarity, etc... BF2 doesn't sound quite as good as my old Yggdrasil A2, but gets shockingly close... and it sounds worlds better than when I owned it years ago.

I have an ethernet to optical/fiber to ethernet device on the way so I'll see what that does. I am also investigating Diretta.

 

Yep. When I still had BF2 OG I went from a USB mobo port to two different decrapifiers into Unison USB (ISO Regen then the SOtM one) and it scaled with each step.

 

I found that as much as I liked Unison, switching to a SPDIF (I went with the Gustard U12) converter garnered definite sonic benefits. It still amazes me how little things do add up.

 

I would love to hear a comparison of the Bifrost 2/64 and Modi Multibit 2. I'm thinking Bifrost but I wouldn't mind saving $500...

 

In short MMB2 doesn't have the wow factor like the Bifrost 2 has. It's pretty good though. If I were to pick a downgrade from the BF2 it's the Modius E.

 

Wanted to add this perspective -- Not sure if you are on the path of upgrading or downgrading, but if you are from the standpoint of starting out, and you heard the Modi Multibit 2 solely / in isolation, without ever having heard a Bifrost 2, you may think it is a great sounding DAC, and for its price point, it really is one of the best, IMO.

However, if you have heard the Bifrost 2 prior to listening to the MMB2 or actively A/B them at the same, you may find the BF2 outclasses the MMB2. The BF2 is a way more resolving, more refined and articulate dac.

I have been on the downgrading adventure for the past year especially with Schiit products, coming from Yggdrasil to a BF2 and tried to go down to the MMB2, but couldn't because BF2 ruined me with its wow factor. And listening to the MMB2 was a glaring reminder that it did not have that "wow" factor that @ColdsnapBry succinctly described it.

 

Thank you both!

Slade01- I'm definitely on the upgrade path. Mainly so I can decide if it's worth it and to stop thinking about whether I should buy a new widget. Currently using an Asgard 3 with Multibit card. Bifrost on the way and Mjolnir 3 on backorder. I should have my answer soon!

 

I'm interested in a comparison of the internal multi-bit card vs the Bifrost.
Curious about how much of a trade off it is to go for a single box set-up, for example in a small office or bedside rig.

 

I can speak to that from a Lyr 3 built in ES9028 card vs. Bifrost 2/64 - though I realize you're asking about the multi-bit card. The built-in ESS dac is actually pretty decent, and if your goal is to have a simple, clean, and clutter-free setup (and all you need is a USB input), but also providing very good sound, it really is a very good solution. In my trials, I would say the built-in dac is on par with $100-$300 dacs on the market. You're getting very minimal improvements, if anything, with another external offering (ex. ifi Audio Zen DAC Signature v2, which I tried).

However, there is a significant step up in clarity, resolution, detail, layering, separation, tightness - really, everything - when upgrading to the Bifrost. It's simply a much more capable dac vs. the built-in cards. It's a once you jump, you can't go back sort of deal. Now that I've experienced the BF2 with all its improvements, I would feel pretty shortchanged to go back to the internal dac card.

 

Ethernet to fiber optic arrived...

The change is similar to what Marv said back in the day in during his DAC off regarding the ST-optical input on the Theta... https://www.superbestaudiofriends.o...ransport-a-gd-theta-marantz-or5-face-off.551/

"Scary realism", just a level of artificiality being stripped out, revealing a different presentation altogether, hard to describe the differences in isolation because the change is more holistic (but pinpoint imaging and zero blurring of any musical layers being obvious), just an ease and effortless flow that you hear in real music... though I do still hear BF2-isms in the overall sound. Pretty awesome change for cheap:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225601396537
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JP3QNFQ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 (OM4 SC to SC specifically)

 

So I understand... is the fiber simply providing isolation (eg., length of fiber doesn't matter) or do you want a long run of fiber and minimize the length of the network cable? (meaning you might be running thru walls/floors/etc...)

This is cheap enough that it's worth taking a flyer if I don't have to pull new cable to see the benefit

 

I was interested in investigating the isolation effect, I don't need long runs.

 

Pro-tip: power the 2nd converter (the one that feeds your source) with a decent power supply. No point in the optical isolation if you’re just putting dirty power back into the chain after the fiber.

 

That's next on my list. I currently have two generic power supplies for the Usbridge but want to get a Shanti PSU eventually, but need to buy the Yggdrasil back from @Joshvar first, hopefully by the end of the year.

The thing about stripping things away is the weak links start to show themselves.

 

I've become quite adherent to powering all of my digital source components through isolation transformers. Don't need anything huge or fancy since nothing in that part of my home and office chains are pulling big amperage; I've had good results with eBay-sourced 5-amp Ametek/PowerVars like this: Powervar 5.0 ABC500-11W Medical Power Supply Power Conditioner | eBay

It was quite surprising how feeding BF2 OG from the PowerVar really closed the gap to Yggdrasil.

 

I got my conditioners for hardly nothing on craigslist and ebay.

 

I picked up one of those Topaz .0005pf transformers a couple weeks ago on eBay that the Uptone Audio engineer guy was recommending four or five years ago. Have been too lazy to wire it up so far, but @yotacowboy’s comment is good enough of a push as any to do so and play around with it. I’ll report back.