Discussion in 'Vinyl Nutjob World: Turntable and Related Gear' started by purr1n, Sep 10, 2019.
Mine is also reporting 0.4% to 0.6% slow with turntabulator.
@schiit - My mat is not cut to center, with up to 2mm deviation (3mm gap from platter edge at some points, and only a 1mm gap at other points).
There is definite platter wobble, but I'm not sure how to measure that.
Same on both points. My platter mat is oblong by 3ish mm and my platter has roughly .5mm of wobble.
I don't think it was when I last bought a turntable, back in 1990.
New Technics 1200SLs weren't $4000 either in 1990.
On leveling feet, there's an issue I'm not sure about. If the table comes without leveling feet, it has to have the solid feet, screw on or stick on. Optional leveling feet, to be accessible and useful, will invariably be taller. That affects the alignment with the motor, or more accurately, the location where the belt rides on the platter. Not sure how much of an issue it is. Thoughts?
Especially with the thin platter. It could be an issue with any kind of shimming. Really, the best solution for this style table is a maple slab on which both the table and motor set. Then the entire slab is leveled (and isolated). A large maple cutting board could do the job.
I recently experienced alot of setup issues with a similar turntable, the crosley cruiser:
The issues included:
* Determining which end of the power cord to plug in back of player.
* Figuring out complex latching mechanism on top cover.
* Hours of research in local libraries to determine what calibration option to use: 33rpm or 45rpm.
* Countless damaged records when attempting to play with cover closed.
Seriously thou...i wanted to stop by and thank you for your great, detailed, overview of the Sol. As a huge fan of Schiits products I really appreciate you taking the time to document and describe your experience with Sol. Im pleased to hear that after all the tinkering you ended up with a good sounding system.
Peace n Living in Stereo
This is the best approach. The table footprint is small enough. There are cutting boards from Ikea that may fit.
Note neither Rega P3 or Project Xpression have leveling feet.
Does it need to be maple? What about oak butcher block, or bamboo?
It can be anything solid and flat with a decent amount of weight that will not deform. Not worth it to distinguish the minute difference resonances of oak, ash, maple, or whatever for a cheap table. Let's not go down that road.
I'll definitely be selling my Rega P3 and upgrading to Sol once the kinks are worked out, I've even found a seller who is willing to wait!
I've got a beautiful, coarse-grained slab of central Texas granite under my table that I got for free the perks of being a geologist. just throwing this out there, gabbro (probably mostly referred to as 'black granite') is the ideal for a slab of isolating material, as it's the densest igneous rock, and would beat out any kind of wood. not trying to derail the conversation, but just in case anyone was curious my old lab actually had a sample cell which was isolated from the rest of the machine by a 2" thick slab of gabbro. beautiful stuff.
Anyway, back to the Sol, I'll add in my 2c that I'm also surprised the table doesn't have adjustable feet, as I have never lived anywhere with flat floors in my life. my current apartment is mostly flat except at the head of the room where the table sits. on the other hand, it's easy enough to get some kind of height adjustable feet to put underneath them (and a fourth for the motor), so it's not a deal breaker. I'm thinking Schiit probably considered it and scrapped the idea because it either cost too much or would compromise the quality of the struts.
Anyway, I'm curious how the signal output works on the Sol? Maybe I missed it earlier in the thread, but I'm confused about what that five-pin connector connects to, if not Mani. Are they also sending along a cable with RCAs on one end and the female end of that connector on the other?
The five-pin connector provides an interface from the tonearm wires to the RCA jacks on the chassis / plinth. This allows for easy swapping of tonearms / carts.
Well, that's true. I think I had the option to buy a Technics (don't know the model number now) but preferred the Dual. Both were under GBP200. I am sure I made the wrong decision, but hey, the deck I got played a lot of music.
Cartridge update -- I swapped out the Elys40 for an Ortofon 2M black from another table. No problems with alignment or fit and I like being able to lower the platter to a more reasonable height. The Rega carts are all significantly shorter, which I had compensated for with a very high platter. I did manage to break the ground cable off the head shell but that was easily fixed by backing out the ground screw and reattaching ground wire.
A Sol just arrived in the secret underground lair. I'll be sorting some of the issues over the next few days, but my first reaction is, "Wow, they sure did a fantastic job with so much of it; how did these few details get so messed up?" Fear not, fixes to follow in the very near future.
Is the Mani user-upgradeable to the newer revision without buying a whole new unit? Would like to get the best sound it can pull out of the Sol.
No. Different SMD output op amps soldered to the board. So that would be a no go.
If you’re using MM cartridge, the previous Mani will work. I’m going with a MC this time and need the 59 dB gain from a new Mani.
* I had forgotten about the upgrade in 2018 and assumed I didn’t need the new one you mentioned. Ordered a black one so I don’t confuse the two Manis *
I have the first mani and the 2018 version. Not a huge difference. Though I’m thinking of getting the new black one just cause it would go with my setup better. Plus my old one could become a gift.
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