Hacking Schiit

So I'm going to mark my post as "misinformation". This method is a proper PIA and doesn't work well. The dual soldering irons method from a previous video is the easiest I've tried so far.

 

I’ve had good easy success with the whole side and then just lift a little. The opposite side legs get bent a bit, but not by much of you are careful. I usually use tweezers to hold while I hold the soldering iron with my other hand. The chip quick solder is good for this in the kit because there is no rosin core that will burn up your tip and de solders off the pads with a solder wick easy.

I’ve done a few and the last Bifrost MB I did, I had it done in just under an. hour - meaning: disassembly, removing the boards from the case, de-solder and remove x2, clean up, solder new chips on, clean up, reassembly.

 

I just did my Bifrost MB. Just under an hour as well, using dual soldering irons. I gave up on the method in my video after 10 minutes of ineffectiveness.

 

Those were some exceedingly long cook times on everything except the resistors... good way to fry your chips and nearby components.

 

Just get a rework station. This type works great

http://www.shop.mobilecellphonerepairing.com/product/quick-858d-hot-air-smd-rework-station

 

Anyone ever mess with different AC/AC power supplies?

 

I'm not super confident if I got this right, so I figured I'd ask - it seems that the 2156ID/IDR (SOIC8) is the only one that would work for this mod, right? The others (VSSOP) seem to have a different dimension

 

Correct. Both the ID and IDR are exactly the same electronically, but some in a different delivery package if you will. Cut tape vs tube.

Don’t get the VSSOP! Those are way smaller than an SOIC, like, half the size. They are also the same electronically and also come in tape and tube packaging.

Also note: only the OP2156 is available in a VSSOP package and not the OPA1656. Although in the same family is an OPA1652 in that package. Although both not available until like 2024 or later, unless you wanna pay $33 for one from some Chinese gouger. (I’m dealing with this actually with a another Schiit DAC I am modding, the Modi 2U.)

PS - Digikey has OPA1656’s and OPA2156’s in stock right now. I just received a few of both yesterday.

 

Thanks! Digikey seems to say 0 in stock but Mouser has a bunch of 1656s in stock, and 2156s coming at the end of the month. Problem is the 20 euro delivery costs, so its about 30 euro for 3 of them. Anyone else in the EU want some? I can order extra and post them out to you so we all save a bit

 

You can check Mouser's EU sites to save on shipping.

 

I’m actually interested in opamps for my Modi MB

you should also check Arrow for parts as well

 

I went ahead and ordered a bunch of 1656/2156s from Mouser. If anyone wants some for modding Schiit, send me a message and I'll post them out to you once I get them

Edit: 2156-es got rescheduled to April 2024, so I've canceled them.. But I have 12x 1656-es to share!

 

I finally made the change. It's actually my first SMD rework, hence my hesitancy to make the change. I used OPA1656 for U17 and U18, and OPA2156 for U20. I took some pictures along the way in case these are useful.

Originals:


Removed:


Replaced (took a couple below):



Full underside of the board with new parts:


Letting it burn in before listening.

 

The images are broken for me @batriq

 

Looks like there's private access to his googleusercontent links

 

I want to clear something up about this thread in relation to my past comments that I quoted here because I have been getting many questions about it.

The DC Servo change makes the least amount of change possible. Meaning, even from the TL082 to the 1656 or the 2156, it is a slight improvement that may even leave you thinking if it was worth it. I think it is probably a notch or two in changing cables from the TL082, and it will give better dynamics and textures, but the most dramatic change is changing out the I/V & Buffer. And in the I/V & buffer, there is a much stronger difference between the 1656 and the 2156.

And regarding DC offset between 1656 and 2156, they are equally as good. I thought there was a difference between the two, but that might have been expectation bias. I know we are not immune to such things. If there is a difference, it is quite small. Some have notice no difference at all. And yes I have used a 1656 in a Bifrost for the DC servo and it sounded fantastic and the person I sold said Bifrost too was very well pleased with the sound. So please do not feel the need to have a 2156 in the servo as well. Although feel free to experiment yourselves.

On Modi MB2

I have not yet modded mine, but I first want to change out the TL082 DC servo. And yes, I just said this makes the least difference, but the difference it does make is in quickness and dynamics, something I feel the MB2 is missing. It just sounds rather soft pillowy sound to the bass. @JK47 noted this as, "thicker, liquid density in the mids", which is very fair.

Meaning, I think the OPA2197 (which is also CMOS) sounds kind of in-between of the 1656 and 2156 sound. And hopefully the DC servo will liven it up.

 

Thanks for letting me know. I think I know what I did wrong and edited the post. Please check let me know if you still don't see them.

 

Did mine today as well - 3x OPA1656

I’ll give it a listen over the next few days, I’ve got a piety on loan from @dj-pootsa

 

Here's the one is did with Fast Chip Kit for Quik SMD Removal.

 

Thanks for sharing. Can you explain why you are changing op amps in these (from what to what) and why you chose the one you did. Especially on the Magni 3+ here.

It is also best to use flux on soldering as well as de-soldering.

This is really a video comparing different fluxes on SMD soldering, but also a good tutorial on how to solder properly with SMD components using flux. He shows both soldering with and without flux and with flux is like GD magic! I will never solder without flux on SMD parts ever again.

Watch from 3:34-4:11 and be amazed.