Btdk34

Not sure of how many folks will have had the opportunity to run those specific systems but at worst you can just read up on the differences between the DACs and extrapolate which might better suit your preferences. The Vali 3 seems rather new still (I could just be slow)

The Vali 3 falls on the warmer side. Personally, I would choose the Modi E to pair with it for a budget system

Yeah if you look at the detailed pictures I posted of the crossover in the PAP thread, you should be able to determine how it's pieced together and what components are used. I've only ever used the stock woofers and crossover so far, so I'm not sure how the drivers you specified will work with the standard crossover.

Comfort was my biggest gripe with the Solaris loaner. They looked beautiful, sounded even more so, but fit was downright ugly for me regardless of tips. And really, there's only so much ergonomic hacking one can achieve with what are heavy ass gold nuggets.

@SoupRKnowva Ha yeah, there's definitely a lot of products that get tweaked quickly after release...

@Zhanming057 Yeah I'm considering the Solstice as well! Two possible downsides are that they aren't re-shellable (so bad resale if it doesn't work out), and I've heard even CIEMs can be uncomfortable depending on the person.

Hmmm, bummer. I’ve heard the Solaris is a bit on the heavy side. Heavy IEMs can cause soreness. But if you can go full-size HPs, it’s only for the better.

Might suggest Andromeda over Solaris coming from Ether C. Not sure how much 1.1 changes things but when I heard Ether C it was very bass light.

@cskippy do you say that because Andromeda has slightly less bass than Solaris? Since having the PAP Trios I've been digging a warm, textured bass, so I might not mind if the Solaris has more bass (as long as it's not overpowering).

Yes. However, that's just from reading. My comment was more to do with the change from bass light Ether C to Solaris.

The general Leonidas schematic and the values that I used for my crossover were discussed here in this thread (http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/pap-trio-15-and-diy-discussion.6197/). I'm not sure what the values should be for any other variation or driver setup, but good luck! Seems like there's a good amount of resources online that should help you if you're willing to dig a bit.

Cool, ordered. Looking forward to learning how to use it with REW!

I've gotten good results with the Sonarworks XREF-20 mic (used with REW), but I got the mic 50% off and it requires an a preamp/audio interface, so the MiniDSP UMIK-1 is probably a better route to go for most.

@ultrabike I'd like to commend your choice of avatar images... there's not many who could make a fool out of Batman, but Groucho was definitely one of them

The Ragnarok drives them well with really good defined bass. It is kept at medium gain at 3 o'clock. It probably uses less than 4 ohms and stays in class A most of the time despite the high dynamic range classical I listen to. Finding a suitable upgrade is difficult though. @Hooncake - interested in your impressions of the 30.8 paired with PAPs.

@purr1n That's a good idea. Tone/holographic/spacious qualities are high on my list, which I've read the EC Studio has in spades. Bi-amping will cost a bit more though, but probably worth it in the long run.

I might try to hear the Whammerdyne amp in person again since I'm only two states over from where they're built.

I have the woofers from the trio 15s. I'd recommend run the woofers off the Vidar and get a super amp for the full rangers. Studio T, M or AF depending on your preference.

Nice! Can't get enough of their sound. Are you using Leonidas crossover? Do post your build on the PAP thread...http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/pap-trio-15-and-diy-discussion.6197/

Yep, I’m using the Leonidas Crossover. Good call, I’ll post there!

Where can i find the schematic for leonidas xo? spaz: Oh just read you bought them from PAP i think

def, moar better bass

For another open-baffle build I read that you should not elevate the bottom because it messes with the bass response. But those were wide baffles too.

Weren't you just talking about building Overnight Sensations MTM? That's quite a jump

Haha yes, I was! I finished those a few months back and then went to Axpona (a fantastic experience). Really loved the open and boxless sound of open baffle speakers, and was able to sell my Euphonium to cover 95% of the cost!

My wife and I also ended up winning $700 towards Emotiva at Axpona (a nice surprise), so we picked up a 7.1 surround sound processor. These speakers will (for now) do double duty as the front L and R for that.

I've learned a lot just from youtube. My fave is uncle doug
https://www.youtube.com/user/Stratosaurus1/videos

Go to tubecad.com and read everything. Then check Pete Millett when you finish that in a couple years

Wow! That is a ton of information. Thanks!

@philipmorgan Thanks! Those look like they'd help a ton.

@Cspirou That's a really good point... I've been trying to glue up all the sides and the back at once, and finding that I barely have enough time to get it in place before it shifts or dries out of alignment. I'm a new woodworker so I'll take any advice I can get!

Make sure to avoid the fast drying glue. I always buy the stuff that takes longer to dry because I know I am making adjustments. Im not a factory so no need to do things fast.

Great advice. I bought Titebond III (10 minute cure time) for that exact purpose. My biggest issue (besides doing it all at once) is just that I am not experienced enough yet, but I'll keep progressing. I'm really excited to finish this project so I can post a build thread!

Did you order stuffing? The regular MT's don't sound good until you put a couple handfuls in.

Yep! Ordered about a pound from Amazon. I'm planning on doing a white high-gloss finish and documenting the build so I can post here later :D