Grattle

if you're asking about discrete vs opamps, eh that's just arguing Ford vs Chevy. Pretty sure Jason wrote an entire chapter about that on headfi.

Not really sure you are familiar with the differences in the requirements for each.

Opamps are great for low power applications. So preamps, DAC output stages and phono.

Power amps with higher current requirements need thermal management, especially if it’s Class A. A discrete design with multiple transistors is much better for heat dissipation than a tiny opamp

https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/fully-discrete-circuit-vs-non-discrete.12300/

Does that mean 3X's more better?

Is the 600 going to go in between the SW51 and Gungnir or on the bottom?!

Enjoy! Happy to see them end up with someone who enjoys them. Tell them the HD650 and the HD800 said hi!

My first headphone that made me wow.

I had Gungnir MB A1. It was very good, best DAC I owned up to that point. Eventually the gray background got to me and I sold it. Eventually got an Yggdrasil GS and it's a step beyond in every possible metric. It's so good I didn't play any vinyl for at least six months after getting the Yggdrasil.

You guys are going to make me sell my gungnir A2 and A1 before I even paid for it and order a + GS2

@HotRatSalad Given that it's on last call, yes I'm going to bully you into this course of action.

I guess I re-enabled it? I noticed Everlong sounding…weird. I glanced over to see that Atmos icon lit. Disabled it again but what’s the point? It sounds terrible. I guess it shines on 5.1 maybe.

So many variables with Atmos. What hardware are you sending the Atmos encoded music to? Can it decode multi-channel Atmos or is it downmixing all channels to stereo? I suspect that might be where things are getting "weird." Seems like a gimmick for headphones - 10 discrete channels but only two speakers on my head.

Doesn't do anything for 5.1 either unless you have ceiling speakers for the height channels. Atmos is essentially 5.1.2 (or 7.1.2 or whatever).

I just bought a second Rag 1 to anchor a secondary system. I love that amp.

How sensitive is the volume knob with IEMs? Can't Rag dump the full amp power down the headphone out?

@roshambo123 Theres a good amount of play on the knob in low gain. It’s a stepped attenuator too so perfect channel matching at low volumes.

Had @theveterans tell me about it on their work setup.

Still love mine everyday at work with ETA Mini C. It's like the G2/MIB of amps where it emphasizes nothing but has unbelievable amount of holography, macrodynamics and plankton with BF2 OG DAC

@ChaChaRealSmooth that's interesting that you find it uncomfortable. It's the completely opposite experience for me. On my system, it's really crankable with great tonal balance and superb dynamics.

If I'm not mistaken, all the available rips started in DSD128, so if you have a PCM version, it's been converted from DSD. I don't think that DSD is inherently superior (in fact, I use JRiver to convert mine to PCM), but I wonder if something was messed up by whoever converted the files to PCM.

Oh don't get me wrong, it sounds fantastic and is my preference. I get fatigued though if I play it and listen with something like my Ultralinear + Atrium

It is kind of a deep dive, but if you have time to sit down and watch videos look up Renaissance Periodization on youtube for basically everything you ever need to know about training and nutrition. Dr Mike Israetel is hilarious and super knowledgeable.

Congrats! I know how tough what you did is, I did the same about 8 yrs ago. Then got injured, was unable to exercise hard for roughly 3 yrs and gained 50% of the weight back. Only know starting to look back at my old routine and trying to mentally pysch myself up to go back to it. (so far my mental pysch isn't working so well)

I will second Mike Israetel - he is good. For both strength and mass, for beginners to elite.
Focus quality over quantity and pick the best movements with lowest risk to benefit ratio. In your 50'ies avoiding and managing injury is priority no 1, while still putting in consistent hard work.

Which XLR connection did you go with? Was it hard?

I used a standard XLR4 for use with a Ragnarok. When I did this with the Focal Elear's, I made an XLR 4 to 1/4" TRS with the tail. I can still use the Grados at work with that in hand.

Grado doesn't make it easy. The ground wires are all the same blue. I used a multimeter to test for continuity to determine which channel each wire was associated with. That was probably unwise and I think I got lucky because I would imagine that this sends a dc voltage across the driver.

Do you know what motherboard version you have between 1 and 1.5? I had a v.1 b-stock and a channel blew. Sent it in years ago and had it upgraded to v1.5 and was fine after that. It’s now sitting in a closet.

I can check. It’s a new black one I bought retail after the price drop. It’s only pushing a pair of 6ohm pioneer floor speakers. I will try more air gap around it I guess.

Can you share which wire attaches to what XLR pin for the Grados, pretty please?

I will report back.

Is 'resting clickbait face' a thing?

You mean @GoldenOne? lol. Well, at least you called him a kid.

I can post nudes instead on the front page